Twelfty million of them available, try Amazon. VERY likely you will need to cut and splice a LOT of wires, matching the connectors is fairly unlikely unless a common brand. Very likely you will need a new display, also as these are frequently geared to work with specific conrollers and are rarely interchangeable.
So, get a generic controller and display, do some research to avoid having this problem in the future. All the motor needs is three phase and 5 Halls, assuming that is the connector in your picture, might be useful to post the connectors coming from the motor to verify it is not sensorless, the 5 wire connector would appear to be a Halls connector to the motor, but no verification that the motor has one, which would mean you need a controller capable of sensor-LESS mode, which not all are.
Your pictures show what your broken controller HAS, not repeat NOT what your existing motor, which you intend to re-use, REQUIRES.
If you require assistance and are in a hurry, make more of an effort to provide useful information.
Throttle and pedal sensor connections also could be problematic.
I'm replacing a controller on an old ebike and I can tell you that you will be able to find what you need in the sense of an actual controller - the issue will be the connections from the new controller to the bike's connections. For instance, it appears the Hall Sensor connector IMG_1161 is a 6-pin JST-SM connector. Almost all of the newer controllers are using a different type of JST connector. My point is, you may need to communicate closely with a vendor in order to get one that you can simply plug in. Most will work with you to make sure the connectors will work on your bike, but YOU will be the one responsible to make sure you order the correct connections. Pictures of each connector on the controller would help, as well as what you disconnected them from. For instance, the THROTTLE cable uses 3 wires as does the PAS (Pedal Assist). Both of the connectors on my controller are JST-SM but one is male and the other female.
The other important point is that you are requesting a 13A , the max rating for it says 26A (pic IMG_1164), (maybe I'm reading your intent wrong here and you are just stating the Amp Hour rating of your battery). There are reasons for this that would take too long to explain for this purpose. Make sure you buy a controller that meets that specification if you want your bike to perform the same or better. You will pay a bit more for it, but you won't be happy with one limited at less capacity than your motor will take.
After all that hot air, when I searched for the controller using the keywords/part numbers on the device itself, it states that it is from a Yescom Ebike Conversion Kit Hub Motor. And is used for a number of conversion kits from several manufacturers. The kits I found online all use different connectors than you have pictured. Perhaps a bit more info on the brand of ebike would be helpful. Along with pics of the ends of the controller wires. Try contacting the folks at Yescom looks like they are still around in California.