How many Roll-Road Emma 3 owners?

Has anyone tried putting a motor in the front wheel and turning it into an AWD ebike? In the last couple of days I've seen Youtube influencer Citizencycle modifying the Emma 3.0 with a motor-driven kit on the front wheel. But the front fork isn't double crown.
 
And Citizencyle doesn't explain why he rejected the Roll Road forks. Is it because he's selling the RST Guide forks?
 
I got Emma 3 two weeks ago. So far very satisfied with this e-bike.
 

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Has anyone tried putting a motor in the front wheel and turning it into an AWD ebike? In the last couple of days I've seen Youtube influencer Citizencycle modifying the Emma 3.0 with a motor-driven kit on the front wheel. But the front fork isn't double crown.

I checked with Roll Road, and if I'm going to upgrade the front wheel with a motor to AWD, then the front fork is going to be replaced. Adding a motor requires a stronger fork, which of course is still a double crown fork. And the fork like the one Mr. Citizencycle used can only be used for trials, and is not a proven solution for long term use. It's a long way to go.
 
I'd like to add a cargo basket to the front of the forks so that the weight of the cargo is balanced between front and rear. What other options are there for modification without taking the headlight off?
 
Here are two ways to mount the headlight to the front of the basket. The first is what I did on a Himiway Escape. That I owned for a while. A piece of aluminum angle
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The second is shown in this YouTube video.
 
I checked with Roll Road, and if I'm going to upgrade the front wheel with a motor to AWD, then the front fork is going to be replaced. Adding a motor requires a stronger fork, which of course is still a double crown fork. And the fork like the one Mr. Citizencycle used can only be used for trials, and is not a proven solution for long term use. It's a long way to go.
Take a look at this. I have been doing awd bikes for years, in some cases with some big power on that front wheel.

https://talesontwowheels.com/2021/03/20/dual-motor-awd-electric-bikes-the-good-and-bad/
But you ALWAYS set that power to roll on slowly. And you never use a suspension fork. Do some research on Endless Sphere and Facebook DIY user groups to see the consequences. Mostly snapped dropouts, but you can also pull the fork clean apart as 2-piece suspension forks were never designed to be pulled on by a motor. They are made to get pushed in, instead.

With a 20" wheel, the smaller wheel diameter gives the front motor a torque advantage over and above what it gets on a bigger 26" or similar. Makes the suspension fork risk worse.

You DO see suspension forks on manufactured ebikes, but what they do to get away with it and reduce product liability risk is to de-tune the motor. So they have not found some secret sauce with the RST fork. It is for sure sturdier, but it needs lower motor power to survive long term. No free lunch in this world.

Also, you don't need a triple crown fork. Strength up top is not the issue. The issue is the dropouts surviving a spinout. For that you need steel, two torque arms and a gentle power roll-on. The Grin v5 can usually be set up so its arm uses round holes rather than oval ones so it is impossible to slip, versus the older v2 that didn't have round holes on both ends. Pic shows the V5 with an XL washer over top of it to really clamp the thing down.

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For a few years, the front Bafang G060 motor has been a unicorn but they are back on the DIY market again. The controller to use for the hi-power-capable 750w series is the KT 35a controller. I recently bought two KT T12S sine wave 30a controllers which have the smaller plug for the 500w and lower motors. I have one in service and it has super smooth engagement. Ideal to give almost the same big power to the smaller output motors.
 
So, M@Robertson, where do you get your steel no-suspenion forks? I looked on Amazon, my favorite shopping place and found nothing.
 
So, M@Robertson, where do you get your steel no-suspenion forks? I looked on Amazon, my favorite shopping place and found nothing.
I used to really really like the Surly forks. They are fat and chromoly steel. In particular there was a Surly Ice Cream Truck variant that was QR dropouts and not thru axle, that was suspension-corrected (meaning it was longer than a standard fork) which my bikes' chosen frames needed. I wrecked one and the QR ICT was no longer made, so I tried their Moonlander which was not suspension-corrected, and this taught me in real time thru terrible riding experience why you want to be very careful about screwing around with factory frame geometry.

I have a steelie I scored from Lunacycle just in case, but they are no longer made. Also Origin8 used to sell an alloy (!) fork that was suspension-corrected and so beefed up I was able to use it without breaking anything.

I am also in the process of having a steel truss fork made for me as a custom item for one of my Bullitts. Its a total I think of a 7 month wait to get into line to get that done. Lastly, if you need a 26" fat fork and don't need suspension correction, another choice is the Jones truss fork. They have a QR with dropouts for 'only' $550.

Thankfully my Bullitts come with a steel solid fork from the factory.

TLDR version: It ain't easy.

This is a Chumba chromoly Ursa Major frame, with a Surly ICT fork. I had both stripped and powder coated metallic flake orange for about US$60. Sadly thats the fork I killed. I used the extra one I had for another bike on it so I still have this bike.


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Go to Amazon and type in the search box "steel ebike forks". Hit 'return' and then scroll down three or four rows and there they are.
Careful with those. I took a look and the steelies I saw were typically 1" steerers, which is not compatible with a standard 1 1/8" 'straight' steering tube. 1" is a standard but I think its for BMX or kid bikes or something. Not regular adult bikes. Also none of those forks are telling you two crucial bits of information: Axle-to-crown is the standard measurement that tells you how long the fork is, and no mention of the hub width they fit. 100mm standard? 110mm Boost? 135mm or 150mm fat? Not something you want to order and then hope for the best.

AtoC would tell me if a fork is suspension-corrected. So if the measurement is say about 485mm on a 26" fork, thats suspension corrected. If its about 435mm it ain't. You gotta know that stuff.
 
So where do you get your forks?
Like I said above... it depends on what I need, and where I can find it after a lot of googling. If its a fat 26" wheel and I can do non-suspension-corrected, I'd pick a Surly Moonlander. If its 26" and I need suspension corrected (and I do) I would troll Ebay for a steel Ice Cream Truck with QR dropouts (no luck yet. I will either re-use the Origin8 fork I have on a shelf or I will have a fork made custom if I like the chromoly truss fork workmanship that is getting made for one of my Bullitts).

It might actually make sense to buy an entire bike or a used frame+fork to get just the fork you want. Quality used frame sets on Ebay can be had for very reasonable prices and so can forks. I've found what I wanted twice that way.

But you will have to put the time in and know what you are looking at to determine if what you want will work. Building bikes requires patience and a lot of google-fu.
 
Anyone here done a comparison of the Roll Road Emma 3 vs Ride1Up Revv1? They seem pretty similar.
 
I just purchased an Emma 3.0 and also plan to add a front wheel motor. Been following Citizen Performance for awhile. I had planned to go with this RST Guide forks until I found out I would loose the double crown forks. Then started looking at putting on Grin Technologies Torque Arms. Any idea which kit would work on the Emma 3? I was thinking their V5 or V6 might work. Was hoping to keep the factory front fork.
 
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