Help - Ebike front wheel comes off

[HumanPerson]

Here's my take on this. You're tightening the forks to the Hub motor itself, causing the hub motor to rip itself out of the forks.
Without the washers inside the forks...your woes will continue...just my opinion

 

[pnwbiker]

@berbs.aat Thanks for the photos, they help!

It is entirely possible that the axle is stripped from over tightening and the OP may never get the nuts tight (perhaps that is what the OP is describing when they are tightening the axle nuts). There is no torque arm either, that will need to be resolved.

In picture #5, it does appear that the wheel/axle is going to need a spacer or two on the INSIDE of the fork, you'll want to make sure you add the same amount of spacer to both sides. I say you need a spacer because it looks like the dropouts are bent IN a bit which means the wheel itself and it's standouts are too narrow for the forks. Not a deal breaker. And as @HumanPerson stated, it does appear that the forks are coming into contact with the spinning portion of the wheel assy, a spacer or two of the appropriate size would isolate the wheel from the axle.

In #8, that inside washer closest to the dropout needs to be rotated so that the tab (that bent metal piece) is in the dropout slot that you drop your axle into (as @Nelson37 said). It orients the wheel and the axle so that the cable doesn't spin when you power it up. The wheel has an indent that matches up with these components to lock them all together. Still need the torque arm if you have any hope of keeping it all squared up.

Maybe there a shop near you that might be able to give some advice, at least on how to properly connect the wheel to the bike? Maybe a mobile outfit like VeloFix?

Completely agree with you @HumanPerson

 

[pnwbiker]

I don't know if this will help, but there is ebikeling's video on how to install their wheel assy. Note that the first thing on their website in bold red letters is to install the torque arm before using the wheel. I say this in jest but it is an important part of the install and often missed on ebike conversions as they simply don't tell you or it is not emphasized enough. My opinion, YMMV

https://ebikeling.com/pages/installation-ebike-conversion-kits

EDIT 2: I now see that the installation instructions are for the rear wheel and won't be as helpful to the OP. Still looking for a good high-res schematic of how the parts fit on the FRONT axle
EDIT: add; I try to understand that not everyone has the same technical ability and that even language differences and resultant translations can make things difficult. We should all try to keep this in mind when responding to someones call for assistance. Also just my opinion. Cheers!

 

[Deleted member 4845]

"several other post from other places saying well try using zip ties" - now you say it is your wife. So, you were lying first, or you are lying now.

You are apparently an adult, you see the wire wrapping around the spinning axle, which is not supposed to spin, you were told to ziptie the wires, and THOUGHT THAT WAS A REASONABLE SOLUTION?????

Just exactly WHAT would you all like me to do with that, offer him a lollipop?

That axle has already spun, INSIDE the dropout. The dropout has been permanently widened and weakened. Torque arms would be the ONLY thing holding it in place, now, and they are not designed for that. Also, they are NOT simple to install correctly, absolutely MANDATORY for safe operation on this vehicle, and are any of you going to tell this individual that he is ABSOLUTELY NOT QUALIFIED to perform this task, and need professional assistance to avoid serious injury certain to result if that wheel comes off at speed? Or you all just going to be nice and let the ahole do it?

Don't bother folks, I already know the answer to that one, been down this road WAY too many times.

I use the methods I use because they WORK. Been using them all my life. Online is cluttered with an amazing number of flat-out liars, lazy people, total idiots and clueless morons, and I like to solve puzzles. Diagnostics and troubleshooting interest me. The people who fail to provide the most basic information, go out of their way to make communication difficult, won't answer basic questions, to solve their own friggin problem? I really do not care if they think I am a nice person, good guy, or ahole. They just have a puzzle I want to see the solution to. Don't care if its me, or someone else who finds it, See problem, Seek solution. I remember almost every single one I have ever seen. Many times, due to the above mentioned failures, it is difficult or impossible to isolate the cause of the problem, or even the exact problem itself, getting info is like pulling teeth, often false info is deliberately given. In such cases, the problem/solution data has little to no value whatsoever, the experience is frustrating, it is a waste of time. The only possibility of getting anything of value from the interaction is for it to serve as an example to future readers of what NOT to do when presenting themselves for free troubleshooting.

You have not yet seen what I consider "harsh"

Human, do you know me from somewhere else?

 

[pnwbiker]

Here's a video on the front torque arm install that DOES show the proper orientation of the tabbed washer on the LEFT side of the front wheel. Unfortunately, it doesn't show the right side. But better visual description of at least one side of the wheel - should be able to do same on other side (it's been forever since i've taken apart a front hub ebike, so I don't know if both sides have tabbed washers).

 

[HumanPerson]

"several other post from other places saying well try using zip ties" - now you say it is your wife. So, you were lying first, or you are lying now.

You are apparently an adult, you see the wire wrapping around the spinning axle, which is not supposed to spin, you were told to ziptie the wires, and THOUGHT THAT WAS A REASONABLE SOLUTION?????

Just exactly WHAT would you all like me to do with that, offer him a lollipop?

That axle has already spun, INSIDE the dropout. The dropout has been permanently widened and weakened. Torque arms would be the ONLY thing holding it in place, now, and they are not designed for that. Also, they are NOT simple to install correctly, absolutely MANDATORY for safe operation on this vehicle, and are any of you going to tell this individual that he is ABSOLUTELY NOT QUALIFIED to perform this task, and need professional assistance to avoid serious injury certain to result if that wheel comes off at speed? Or you all just going to be nice and let the ahole do it?

Don't bother folks, I already know the answer to that one, been down this road WAY too many times.

I use the methods I use because they WORK. Been using them all my life. Online is cluttered with an amazing number of flat-out liars, lazy people, total idiots and clueless morons, and I like to solve puzzles. Diagnostics and troubleshooting interest me. The people who fail to provide the most basic information, go out of their way to make communication difficult, won't answer basic questions, to solve their own friggin problem? I really do not care if they think I am a nice person, good guy, or ahole. They just have a puzzle I want to see the solution to. Don't care if its me, or someone else who finds it, See problem, Seek solution. I remember almost every single one I have ever seen. Many times, due to the above mentioned failures, it is difficult or impossible to isolate the cause of the problem, or even the exact problem itself, getting info is like pulling teeth, often false info is deliberately given. In such cases, the problem/solution data has little to no value whatsoever, the experience is frustrating, it is a waste of time. The only possibility of getting anything of value from the interaction is for it to serve as an example to future readers of what NOT to do when presenting themselves for free troubleshooting.

You have not yet seen what I consider "harsh"

Human, do you know me from somewhere else?

No sir i do not know you from anywhere but here. You seem very knowledgeable (spelling?) but you come off harsh when i know you're trying to help...just sayin

I do not intend to see what you consider harsh mate...behave.

HP

 

[pnwbiker]

@berbs.aat
It would be nice to have some photos of both sides of the fork dropouts with the wheel removed. It is entirely possible that the "popping" sound you are hearing when tightening the axle nuts is the axle rotating in the dropouts (which would not be good). Personally, I would think the wire harness would rotate as this was happening and would be a signal to me that the axle is not locked into place - perhaps the OP can tell us if this is occurring.

Also, photos of the axle on each side of the wheel (off the bike, without any nuts or washers - both sides). Trying to determine if the axle is stripped. It doesn't appear from the photos, but the axle nuts could be covering damage.

Here we can determine if there is terminal damage or not.

 

[berbs.aat]

"several other post from other places saying well try using zip ties" - now you say it is your wife. So, you were lying first, or you are lying now.

You are apparently an adult, you see the wire wrapping around the spinning axle, which is not supposed to spin, you were told to ziptie the wires, and THOUGHT THAT WAS A REASONABLE SOLUTION?????

Just exactly WHAT would you all like me to do with that, offer him a lollipop?

That axle has already spun, INSIDE the dropout. The dropout has been permanently widened and weakened. Torque arms would be the ONLY thing holding it in place, now, and they are not designed for that. Also, they are NOT simple to install correctly, absolutely MANDATORY for safe operation on this vehicle, and are any of you going to tell this individual that he is ABSOLUTELY NOT QUALIFIED to perform this task, and need professional assistance to avoid serious injury certain to result if that wheel comes off at speed? Or you all just going to be nice and let the ahole do it?

Don't bother folks, I already know the answer to that one, been down this road WAY too many times.

I use the methods I use because they WORK. Been using them all my life. Online is cluttered with an amazing number of flat-out liars, lazy people, total idiots and clueless morons, and I like to solve puzzles. Diagnostics and troubleshooting interest me. The people who fail to provide the most basic information, go out of their way to make communication difficult, won't answer basic questions, to solve their own friggin problem? I really do not care if they think I am a nice person, good guy, or ahole. They just have a puzzle I want to see the solution to. Don't care if its me, or someone else who finds it, See problem, Seek solution. I remember almost every single one I have ever seen. Many times, due to the above mentioned failures, it is difficult or impossible to isolate the cause of the problem, or even the exact problem itself, getting info is like pulling teeth, often false info is deliberately given. In such cases, the problem/solution data has little to no value whatsoever, the experience is frustrating, it is a waste of time. The only possibility of getting anything of value from the interaction is for it to serve as an example to future readers of what NOT to do when presenting themselves for free troubleshooting.

You have not yet seen what I consider "harsh"

Human, do you know me from somewhere else?

The several other places I saw the zipties was user photos that were submitted from where she bought the kit. and she sent me the set of photos and said maybe try zipties. Moving on now...

 

[berbs.aat]

OK clearly I’m having an issue and I do not know what it is that I’m talking about, that’s why I came in here for help. I took several more pictures as you can now see it the cord and wires that are coming from the bolt that is coming from the tire mechanism is now coming unraveled yet again I have moved the washers and the one they use it has like a little peg on it to different positions on what is called the fork on the frame of my bike/trike in a matter where I put either of those as soon as I do you the throttle the wires and cord wraparound even when I put the black cap over the bolt after tightening it on both sides with a wrench I have tried holding it with a socket wrench and another wrench and tightening it an opposite at the same time and then covering them with the caps no matter what I’m doing the video that I posted is continuing to happen I did order two of those torque arms that you guys have been talking about however I still need to know what I’m doing wrong and connecting this because I am still messing up the wires is there any more help or any other pictures that would help you guys

 

[HumanPerson]

 

[Deleted member 4845]

Your dropout is destroyed. The axle has rotated, forcing a 14MM steel bar through what USED TO BE a rigid, 10mm gap. That fork will never hold a wheel again, without either extensive repair or replacement.

If it is steel, a new dropout can be permanently welded on, and the whole thing heat-treated, and this might be cheaper than a new fork. Might not. Torque arms are designed to HELP the fork dropout keep the axle from spinning. They are NOT repeat NOT meant to hold the axle in place entirely on their own. They are ONLY meant to help prevent axle rotation.

You need a new fork, and you absolutely require hands-on, in-person, knowledgeable help for installation and setup. Without these things, you and that vehicle are a danger to yourself and others, a menace to society.

 

[Deleted member 4845]

I am going to explain what happens with a front fork failure at speed, involving loss of wheel.

First, you lose all ability to steer. The front of the bike pitches downward sharply, the forward-pointing forks stab into the road. Sometimes they slide a bit, but typically they catch, the bike comes to a sudden halt. You, however, do not.

The sudden stop, or severe de-celeration, combined with the front pitching dramatically downward, causes the rear of the bike to rotate upward, causing the whole structure to act like a Roman catapult, and YOU are the missile. The lever action often results in an INCREASE in velocity in your, roughly forward, totally uncontrolled ballistic flight path. If you are lucky, you hit the road and slide or tumble in a straight line, and no one runs you over. However, you could go sideways into oncoming traffic, the guy behind you may not stop in time, or you may slam into some solid object.

Accidents may be caused as people try to avoid hitting what is left of you, and/or your bike. Of all types of bicycle mishaps, front fork failure involving loss of wheel at speed is the most likely to result in death or serious injury.

Also, in case you do not know, that type of trike is very unstable when trying to turn at all sharply at pretty much any speed over 10-12 mph. Use extreme caution when turning.

Back in the 70's, there was a brand of bike called a Lambert. It is infamous as the "death-fork bike". It killed at least one rider, I think it was two or three. Also a few serious head injuries and other hospitalizations. Company ceased to exist.

I owned one.

 

[TomDu]

Things get frustrating when you can't do the work with your own hand's.

 

[jhonmartin692]

It sounds like your bike's tire is not properly secured to the front fork.

 

[fyfa]

The position of blue, yellow and green (thick line and thin line) lines are not connected correctly.

 

[fyfa]

OK I have a new E bike that I am trying to connect to my trach I bought a kit and I have everything in the video as to what’s going on but I can’t seem to get it to not do this it wraps up around the bolts and then pops the whole tire off of the front… any suggestions or anyone know what I’m doing wrong?? Have tried moving bolts around the wire zip ties!!!

The pins of blue, yellow and green lines(2 sets,thick and thin,on controller and motor)are not connected correctly.
there r 54 ways of connection, it will take you a lot of time to try 54 times.don't cry,
by the way,1000w? can you tell me the electric current when you use the e-bike?

so my advice: use the e drive wheel,all in one wheel ,very easy.

 

[Deleted member 4845]

First, there are only 36 combinations. Also, there is a system that reduces that number significantly.

Second, your proposed solution to the problem is ridiculous, absurd, and dangerous.

 

[fyfa]

First, there are only 36 combinations. Also, there is a system that reduces that number significantly.

Second, your proposed solution to the problem is ridiculous, absurd, and dangerous.

yes,try 36 times at most.
Generally, there is no problem with the right color, unless the factory makes a mistake
Before your try, put the vehicle up first and keep the wheel on which the motor is located suspended,there is no danger in doing so.

 

[gogomobile]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005827182092.html

that hole above your axel in your forks is for flange washers. all you may have problems is wires on your bike again ....to remove those huge washers and replace with flange washers. the flange points go into your hole in forks! this stops wheel coming off.

 

[gogomobile]

flange washers fixed it for my mate.only we had to get out a rotary tool and resize the hole in the flange. you need a pair pliers as gets rather hot when grinding with small stone grinder .and dont touch it but dip in water if have to. really need use to water cool it down to check size try not round the long ways and no a drill wont work i tried that maybe see if can get right size first and please measure the outside including thred
oh btw the wires you can cut in half and rejoin with joints a bit soldier on it and heatshrink wont work for high voltage but can do on hall but high voltage wires you need clip like joiners without solder and heavey tape that separates them i actually like cloth tape the best over heatshink