Help - Ebike front wheel comes off

berbs.aat

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OK I have a new E bike that I am trying to connect to my trach I bought a kit and I have everything in the video as to what’s going on but I can’t seem to get it to not do this it wraps up around the bolts and then pops the whole tire off of the front… any suggestions or anyone know what I’m doing wrong?? Have tried moving bolts around the wire zip ties!!!

 

Nelson37

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Looks like the axle is too small ? to fit tight into the dropouts, or your nuts are not tight at all. Usually when it looks like this it has snapped one side of the dropout clean off, but this looks like it just spins out, and you have apparently done this more than once. Usually the axle is too BIG.

Also, you may have a washer with a tab on it which fits into a slot on the motor, make sure this is lined up and make sure your nuts are TIGHT. Washer goes OUTSIDE the dropout, motor INSIDE.

Are those forks ALUMINUM, or STEEL? Are the dropouts bent?

The really, really GOOD NEWS is that usually this happens at high speed while on the road. Never seen it in slow motion.

Carefully examine the dropout for cracks, for that to release that quickly, without snapping half of it off, is very odd. Is that axle TIGHT when it goes into the slot, are you using the flat part against the sides of the fork, is it in as far as it can go?

Also, WTF is a "trach" ???

Bolts around the zip-ties??
 

berbs.aat

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Looks like the axle is too small ? to fit tight into the dropouts, or your nuts are not tight at all. Usually when it looks like this it has snapped one side of the dropout clean off, but this looks like it just spins out, and you have apparently done this more than once. Usually the axle is too BIG.

Also, you may have a washer with a tab on it which fits into a slot on the motor, make sure this is lined up and make sure your nuts are TIGHT. Washer goes OUTSIDE the dropout, motor INSIDE.

Are those forks ALUMINUM, or STEEL? Are the dropouts bent?

The really, really GOOD NEWS is that usually this happens at high speed while on the road. Never seen it in slow motion.

Carefully examine the dropout for cracks, for that to release that quickly, without snapping half of it off, is very odd. Is that axle TIGHT when it goes into the slot, are you using the flat part against the sides of the fork, is it in as far as it can go?

Also, WTF is a "trach" ???

Bolts around the zip-ties??
Trike three wheel bike
 

berbs.aat

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Okay it seems as though when I am using the bike I do have bolts with the things on them but they don’t go into any slots there’s a space on the underside of my trikes arm but that’s where I’m putting those I am tightening the bolts as tight as I possibly can until they start to rent around and pull off and so that I loosen them to fix it and as soon as I start the motor that’s when the courts starts to wrap around the bolt
 

Nelson37

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I am having a very hard time understanding what the HELL you are saying.

The NUTS, that go onto the motor AXLE, which is threaded like a bolt, These should be as tight as you can get them. Explain how they "rent around and pull off", this is VERY IMPORTANT, because that part where you loosen them to fix it, THAT is the problem, or at least a major part of it.

Go back and read my first post. The, READ IT AGAIN. Every question was asked for a reason. ANSWER THEM. ALL OF THEM.

Answer the question in this post. Make an effort to type understandable english.

Are you by any chance using the axle nuts that came with the original trike wheel, and NOT the nuts that came with the motor?

It should not be possible to tighten a nut, then have SOMETHING happen to it and pull right off.

Take some clear, closeup pictures of the bottom of the forks, with the motor present, and with the motor off, and post them.

The situation you have is potentially dangerous and needs to be resolved before the trike is used, you may need some sort of assistance to get this done correctly. It is likely at this point that the dropouts are damaged and you may need a replacement fork.
 

berbs.aat

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OK so no issue is that the cord/wire When pulling the throttle to get the Wheel to move the wire for some reason wraps around the bolts And Loose the bolts and the wheel falls off of the frame…
 

pnwbiker

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It would be helpful to have more photos of both sides of the wheel, particularly down where it connects to the forks. Eventually the wires will become twisted and pull out of the connections inside the hub if you keep spinning the wheel like that - just an FYI.

It does appear from the video that you might be missing a torque arm - the axle would not spin like that at the connecting nuts if you had one that was properly installed. The torque arm prevents the axle from spinning along with adding a point of connection to the forks that will take the force of torque the wheel generates when it is spinning under power. A super important component.

Also, most of these motors have a particular way they are connected to the forks - the washers and other components and the way they are installed are usually depicted in the instructions. Be sure to follow.

A torque wrench is helpful for these axle nuts, but is not required. This tool, when used properly, will prevent you from over tightening the nuts as well as ensuring that they are tight enough. It's hard to describe how tight to make these if you aren't using one. I found these general torque settings at this website, they seem reasonable. I'd check with the bike or motor manufacturer for their recommendations:
Axle nutsfront180-240 lb/in (20.3-27.1 Nm)

The missing torque arm is a common issue, as an FYI, some folks use TWO torque arms per motor (one on each side of the axle).

Good luck

EDIT: Added; two torque arms on the front axle because of the force the motor generates - the back wheel has a stronger mounting point (it's a triangle) and therefore one torque arm is sufficient. The front forks are nothing like this and many feel that two torque arms balance the force on both forks. YMMV
 

Nelson37

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Look, folks, I agree a torque arm is a good idea, BUTT -

This problem is at a far more basic level, wheels just do not fall of like that at such a low speed.

OP is either a non-native english speaker, or something else.

Either that axle is way too small for the dropout, which is not likely but possible, or the dropout has already been widened significantly for it to fall out that easily. We are not seeing the beginning of this story. It should stick reasonably well with no nuts at all, at such a low throttle for such a short time. As soon as it gets a bit of throttle, that axle is spinning right away

I am wondering if he is using the black plastic cap instead of the actual nut?

At any rate, he is not providing any useful information, so this is one of those mystery novels with the last chapter missing.

Could be just a troll.

Good luck to you.
 

berbs.aat

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Look, folks, I agree a torque arm is a good idea, BUTT -

This problem is at a far more basic level, wheels just do not fall of like that at such a low speed.

OP is either a non-native english speaker, or something else.

Either that axle is way too small for the dropout, which is not likely but possible, or the dropout has already been widened significantly for it to fall out that easily. We are not seeing the beginning of this story. It should stick reasonably well with no nuts at all, at such a low throttle for such a short time. As soon as it gets a bit of throttle, that axle is spinning right away

I am wondering if he is using the black plastic cap instead of the actual nut?

At any rate, he is not providing any useful information, so this is one of those mystery novels with the last chapter missing.

Could be just a troll.

Good luck to you.
OK I’m not a troll I just don’t know what to tell you here I’m using dictation I am at work I have a trach I am tightening the bolts as tight as I can while tightening them even the wheel is popping off of my fruit I can send a couple of other pictures that way maybe you can see along with maybe some other videos so you might be able to see what’s going on but that’s the best I can describe what’s going on I’m just asking if the torque arm is what I need to get then I will get it I’m just having a lot of trouble and this is the second time this is happened second wheel that is that this is happened with
633AE6BC-5B41-4E9E-A928-560CD08DE801.jpeg
 

berbs.aat

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Maybe any as it for us you will be able to see that I am putting the black thing on I’m fighting and I even tried putting the bolts on the other side of my frame or I’m not sure what word to use here I’m very sorry I follow the instructions I followed a second set of instructions that I found online as well along with several other post from other places saying well try using zip ties
 

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Nelson37

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First, do not make it so hard to communicate, and second, whatever moron told you to use zipties to solve this problem, never ever listen to them again. About anything. Your problem is not the wire getting wrapped, it is the axle spinning in the first place.

Now - examine pic #8. Immediately below the nut, sticking out at about 2 o'clock position, is the tab I was talking about. It is attached to a usually thick washer, and is bent badly. It should be 90 degress, a right angle, from the flat plane on the washer. You need to FIRST, rotate that around to the open end of the fork dropout, then, rotate the motor until you find the slot it will fit into. Even if there is no slot, the tab needs to be in the open end of the dropout.

Also, it looks in picture 7 that the axle is not seated all the way down in the dropouts, it needs to bottom out in that dropout.

Now, I told you to take pictures of the fork with NO FREAKIN MOTOR. Now that this is the SECOND motor with this issue, and seeing the damage to the outside of the fork face, and STILL not knowing if they are steel or aluminum, GET A FREAKIN MAGNET, it is necessary to see the fork dropouts, WITH NO MOTOR, to try to determine how damaged they are and if you need new forks. This will probably require an inspection by someone who understands the problem, there is a serious safety issue involved.

I will tell you right now you need to get this to someone who can change a tire on a bicycle, as it is actually amazingly difficult to screw up this bad, this quickly.

Pic 6 appears to show the wire wrapped with the axle still in the dropouts. If this is correct, you need a new fork, that one is toast.

In #2 and #3, the rightmost edge of the dropout jaw appears to have a significant chunk of metal gouged out. Probably by the tab on the washer, which was improperly installed. It is usually called an anti-rotation washer, and you got rotation. Price out a new fork, very likely you need one even to re-install the original wheel.

This vehicle should not be used again until it is examined by a qualified professional. It is unsafe.
 

berbs.aat

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First, do not make it so hard to communicate, and second, whatever moron told you to use zipties to solve this problem, never ever listen to them again. About anything. Your problem is not the wire getting wrapped, it is the axle spinning in the first place.

Now - examine pic #8. Immediately below the nut, sticking out at about 2 o'clock position, is the tab I was talking about. It is attached to a usually thick washer, and is bent badly. It should be 90 degress, a right angle, from the flat plane on the washer. You need to FIRST, rotate that around to the open end of the fork dropout, then, rotate the motor until you find the slot it will fit into. Even if there is no slot, the tab needs to be in the open end of the dropout.

Also, it looks in picture 7 that the axle is not seated all the way down in the dropouts, it needs to bottom out in that dropout.

Now, I told you to take pictures of the fork with NO FREAKIN MOTOR. Now that this is the SECOND motor with this issue, and seeing the damage to the outside of the fork face, and STILL not knowing if they are steel or aluminum, GET A FREAKIN MAGNET, it is necessary to see the fork dropouts, WITH NO MOTOR, to try to determine how damaged they are and if you need new forks. This will probably require an inspection by someone who understands the problem, there is a serious safety issue involved.

I will tell you right now you need to get this to someone who can change a tire on a bicycle, as it is actually amazingly difficult to screw up this bad, this quickly.

Pic 6 appears to show the wire wrapped with the axle still in the dropouts. If this is correct, you need a new fork, that one is toast.

In #2 and #3, the rightmost edge of the dropout jaw appears to have a significant chunk of metal gouged out. Probably by the tab on the washer, which was improperly installed. It is usually called an anti-rotation washer, and you got rotation. Price out a new fork, very likely you need one even to re-install the original wheel.

This vehicle should not be used again until it is examined by a qualified professional. It is unsafe.
Well, I'm at work. so I'll have to do all of this at home this evening and get back to you. I appreciate you are trying to help, but I don't know why all the anger, yelling, and name calling about my wife.
 

HumanPerson

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berbs, looking at your pics it seems you mhave the washers all on the outside.
you'll need to use one or more on the inside...that way your wheel will not catch and rip out ...or so it seems to me...

Also...get a torque arm for that set up ;)
 
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