Help! Cruise Control on Zeegr F1 Pro Engages Automatically - Can't Turn it Off

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UPDATE: The seller of my bike checked with the technicians. You can NOT turn off cruise control. Apparently the display has the parameter to turn it off (17p), BUT the controller isn't programmed to recognize that parameter. It's seems completely insane to program the controller for automatic cruise control. I will leave my post so other people can find it.

Hello!

I just purchased a Zeegr F1 Pro Dual Motor with Dual Battery fat tire electric bike. It has the YL81F display. Below I describe my problem:

1) When I have the throttle set to any speed for 2 - 3 seconds the Cruise Control automatically turns on. I see the speedometer icon show on the display. I have to hit the brakes to turn it off. This is dangerous when I'm riding off road on steep ridges. Having grown up riding dirt bikes I'm very used to a bike slowing down when the throttle is released.

2) The YL81F manual states that Cruise Control can be turned off via Parameter 17 p. It says the options are "01" engaged and "00" disengaged. I went into the seetings and 17p was set at 01. I changed it to 00. I took it for a test drive and Cruise Control still automatically engages.

Does anyone know if this is normal behavior? Does anyone else have a Zeegr, Bluvall or similar that has Cruise Control automatically engage? Is there a way to turn it off?

I contacted the seller. He responded to use the brakes to disengage the cruise control. That does work, but I would really like to turn it off completely when I'm riding off road. Any help you guys can give would be much appreciated!

CNB
 
CNB, I feel your pain! I have a new S1 that acts the same way and also being a long time MC driver I don't like cruise at all. I currently have about a 10 page e-mail with the seller and tech help asking the same question and others. Which has amounted to about zero help. Note; be prepared to do the trouble shooting and repair on your own! The info I ask for either was disregarded, not known, or incorrect. The replies from the seller/tech help to their credit were fast (within 1 working day) and they shipped replacement parts from China in a reasonable time. All well and fine but, I needed info, wiring diagram, controller parameters that kind of help. I stopped asking and wasting my time. Never did find out how to limit P1 speed to anything less than 19/20 mph. ( I would rather have 10) and truth is I don't think I CAN make hardly any changes in this L 2000 Dual Drive controller. This bike is a beast and has a ton of climbing power I like it a fair amount. I would like it way, way better if I could change a few things.

Uncle of
 
CNB, I feel your pain! I have a new S1 that acts the same way and also being a long time MC driver I don't like cruise at all. I currently have about a 10 page e-mail with the seller and tech help asking the same question and others. Which has amounted to about zero help. Note; be prepared to do the trouble shooting and repair on your own! The info I ask for either was disregarded, not known, or incorrect. The replies from the seller/tech help to their credit were fast (within 1 working day) and they shipped replacement parts from China in a reasonable time. All well and fine but, I needed info, wiring diagram, controller parameters that kind of help. I stopped asking and wasting my time. Never did find out how to limit P1 speed to anything less than 19/20 mph. ( I would rather have 10) and truth is I don't think I CAN make hardly any changes in this L 2000 Dual Drive controller. This bike is a beast and has a ton of climbing power I like it a fair amount. I would like it way, way better if I could change a few things.

Uncle of
I agree, the bike is a beast. Mine doesn't have a rear shock, so it's a bit rough on ruts and such. I haven't tried changing the top speed for the various PAS. It sounds like it wouldn't work if I did try. I turned off PAS and use throttle only. The throttle is limited by the PAS setting, and you're right that PAS 1 is way too fast. I'm starting to get the hang of fanning the throttle. It's a PITA, but the only way I've found to prevent cruise control from engaging.

CNB
 
Well, at some point this may become a thread for Zeegr riders who would like to install a new KT controller and display, so that you have lots of customizable options. There are a number of threads here and YouTube videos out there, if pas and cruise control, all just become too frustrating.
 
The controller on the S1 that I have is a single box with 2 outputs. One for each wheel. The id plate on the controller reads;
Dongguanjing hui Controller Co. Mod. L-2000 date 07-08-24 amps.output 23A front wheel and 25 A rear. Brake "low" Voltage 36 to 60v and current of 20-30 Amps. Setup is YL81F display, K6 input control, S-1,L-2000 motor controller. Controller password is "1111". I tried to change the dropout voltage from 42v default to 45v for a little extra safety factor, no idea whether a change was really made or not??????
 
That's one of the things I was wondering. I don't have much experience with single controllers that set up for two motors.
 
I have an F1 pro as well green, i purchased in Aug of 2024, brakes kept failing saying brake failure on screen 05 code so i installed new brakes without cutoffs. AND the 17p setting does work and disengages the cruise control which if you dont have brakes cutoff with cruise control on the motor will keep running so im thankful the setting works. HOWEVER I just purchased another one 2 weeks ago beginning of April 2025, black in color Same F1 Pro. And it seems slightly different, battery slightly smaller components (shocks, Motor button, handle grips) all different compared to my green one. I got the same run around for my black model from SMLRO seller on Amazon that the cruise control cannot be disabled, dont know how this is possible when my green one works? i love the bikes, i have over 1200 miles on my green one. But if the brakes start failing on the black one and the cruise control cannot be disabled I'm screwed. Thinking about returning it cause of this! 8 month difference between purchasing first one and second one dont know how they messed it up this bad.
 
These are Chinese bikes and often are assembled from batches of parts that they can get a deal on. This is one of the reasons people will buy a new display from the same manufacturer and it won't work with their old controller, even though it is the same model of bike. I think having brake cutoffs is crucial. I suppose you could install a kill switch from the battery as sort of a panic button or you could put in your own programmable controller and display. I personally could not live with a cruise control that had a mind of its own.
 
I really like the bike, but had I known about the "mind of its own" cruise control I would have looked elsewhere. They don't even advertise that it has cruise control. On road trips I've noticed that if it's set at a low power setting for a while it will disengage when I crank the throttle.What's strange is when I first got it cranking the throttle didn't turn it off. It seems to have to be set for a while before cranking the throttle will disengage. Otherwise, you can be cruising a long a low speed, crank the throttle and nothing. You have to engage the brakes to turn it off. REALLY bad "feature."
 
Do you have brake cutoffs on the new bike? If you don't, take a look at your controller when you get a chance and see if there are any left over plugs that aren't doing anything. I've heard of this before.
 
Yes the new bike I have ( black) has brake cutoffs. nothing is left over or extra by any means as well which seems to be working fine. My green F1pro I got in August 24, controller says it was manufactured June of 2024. 17p cruise control turn off option works on this one. It seems to have a brake failure problem which unplugging the cutoff wires in the harness turns the code off,its almost left me stranded multiple times as I ride 40 miles a day or less, ever since it was new even.

It stresses me out that my Black new F1 pro is going to do the same thing. this new one like i said the cruise control isn’t shutting off with the 17p setting so if i decided to disconnect the brake cutoffs on the new one the cruise control would stay wide open and keep running until I’d shut off the battery switch. Thought it would be the same as my green bike and I almost want to return it just because of this reason.
 
Yes the new bike I have ( black) has brake cutoffs. nothing is left over or extra by any means as well which seems to be working fine. My green F1pro I got in August 24, controller says it was manufactured June of 2024. 17p cruise control turn off option works on this one. It seems to have a brake failure problem which unplugging the cutoff wires in the harness turns the code off,its almost left me stranded multiple times as I ride 40 miles a day or less, ever since it was new even.

It stresses me out that my Black new F1 pro is going to do the same thing. this new one like i said the cruise control isn’t shutting off with the 17p setting so if i decided to disconnect the brake cutoffs on the new one the cruise control would stay wide open and keep running until I’d shut off the battery switch. Thought it would be the same as my green bike and I almost want to return it just because of this reason.
Let me know if you find a solution or return the bike. The Zeegr store consulted their technicians, and they said that the controllers aren't programmed to accept the 17p parameters. It's crazy to think they put auto cruise control with no way to disable.
 
Let me know if you find a solution or return the bike. The Zeegr store consulted their technicians, and they said that the controllers aren't programmed to accept the 17p parameters. It's crazy to think they put auto cruise control with no way to disable.
That’s what’s funny to me. I got this on Amazon through SMLRO e-bike, and the first one I got in Aug of 2024 the cruise control can be enable and disabled that’s why I can’t figure what they changed controller wise because clearly they did.

Blows my mind, can’t wrap my head around it.
 
Same seller both times
It's a real head scratcher. I'm thankful you posted, because I now know that they weren't always that way. I doubt the seller even knew about this until I brought it up. I don't want to go through the hassle of boxing up and returning the bike. Hopefully, there will be an easy fix. If not, I may have to switch out controllers and display at some point.
 
I'm still trying to get my new e-bike a Zeegr S1 running to the point where I can take it for a ride and reasonably expect to make it back. This new bike came from the factory with a short pin (cut?) in the 12 pin comm. connector (10 pins in a circle with 2 pins thru the middle) this short pin has caused ALL kinds of different error codes. This was a real booger to find, shining a flashlight at the end of the connector (male end) I saw 11 points of light instead of 12 points of light. That's how I found the shorter pin. It didn't reflect light like the full length pins. A fair sized pothole (shock) killed the whole system, display blank no juice. Moved the connector and power flickers on and off. I'm now waiting for a replacement cable (from china of course) Hey sellers, how about stocking some parts stateside. To me this is a no brainer. Today is 04/17/25 I received this bike 03/11/25 good thing I didn't have any trips planned!

DbrosBiking; Originally the factory techs thought my bike had a brake switch problem. The indications I saw showed no brake issue. Applied rt. brake handle, brake light comes on applied left brake handle brake light on, all normal ! Brake light staying on or not going off, problem! In other words I used the brake light to trouble shoot whether the brake switches were working OK or not. These brake switches are a spring loaded mechanical switch. Either they work, are open or shorted. Good luck with your bike I too have thought about sending it back. I really really dislike this auto cruse control and wished I had on/off control over it.

Uncle of
 
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