Hello everybody. I need some experience.

EzRider

New member
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Jun 21, 2022
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Hello everybody I am new. Happy June. So I recently just got a bike to commute around town when it's nice. Then I saw these conversion kits and decided to go for distance. That's the tragic back story.

I decided to go hardtail. I got the Huffy Rock creek 18 speed 29 in rim. If I'm not mistaken there were 48T on the chainring.

The current situation. I want to convert this to a class 2 ebike below 30 give or take and I would like to be able to cover 50 miles. The catch is I would like to do this conversion for under 500. I'm 6'1" 250lbs.

I guess what I need to know now is what v/w do I need and I am looking AT the BAFANG mid crank 48v 750w. Chainring 48T. SW102 display.
Thank you guys for the advice/help if I missed anything.
 
Hello everybody I am new. Happy June. So I recently just got a bike to commute around town when it's nice. Then I saw these conversion kits and decided to go for distance. That's the tragic back story.

I decided to go hardtail. I got the Huffy Rock creek 18 speed 29 in rim. If I'm not mistaken there were 48T on the chainring.

The current situation. I want to convert this to a class 2 ebike below 30 give or take and I would like to be able to cover 50 miles. The catch is I would like to do this conversion for under 500. I'm 6'1" 250lbs.

I guess what I need to know now is what v/w do I need and I am looking AT the BAFANG mid crank 48v 750w. Chainring 48T. SW102 display.
Thank you guys for the advice/help if I missed anything.
You got the right idea. Look at the 500C display and a Bling Ring for the front gear.
 
Why do you recommend the 500c display.. I was looking at the P850c but I thought the sw102 would save the battery..?
 
Why do you recommend the 500c display.. I was looking at the P850c but I thought the sw102 would save the battery..?
I've used 3 different displays now and the 500C works best. It's easy to see, small, waterproof, easy to mount, and inexpensive, as far as power no display is going to make a dent in a big lithium pack.
 
I've used 3 different displays now and the 500C works best. It's easy to see, small, waterproof, easy to mount, and inexpensive, as far as power no display is going to make a dent in a big lithium pack.
Far out that's good to know do you think I can get 50 miles distance or even drop to the 500 or stick 750?
 
Far out that's good to know do you think I can get 50 miles distance or even drop to the 500 or stick 750?
I started out with a BBS02 750W, after 14K miles it was making some noise and I found that was almost impossible to rebuild with all the changes in models and specs that BaFang had. The BBSHD is a little larger and about 3.5 pounds heavier but can be rebuilt and repairs much easier. I think the BBSHD is a much better option. It can be programmed to 750W allowing you to keep the Class-1 status. It sounds like you are looking for basically what I wanted when I built mine. Read this and maybe it will answer so questions. - https://ebikesforum.com/threads/my-philosophy-for-building-close-to-the-perfect-etouring-bike.2378/
 
Being 250 I assume my set up with me will be 300lbs at 48v what do you estimate the top speed?
 
Being 250 I assume my set up with me will be 300lbs at 48v what do you estimate the top speed?
You should use 52V lithium packs, they max charge to 58.8V which is perfect for BBSXX mid-drives. Speed is determined more by gearing than wattage or H.P. One of the best things about BBSXX mid-drives is that you can remove them and put them on a different bike if you want. If you have a bike sitting in the garage most likely you can mount a BBSHD on it and spend a year learning how to ride it then start looking for the perfect bike. You also want the largest battery (2) you can find. Remember that a Class-1 or 2 ebike isn't a little electric motorcycle.
 
You should use 52V lithium packs, they max charge to 58.8V which is perfect for BBSXX mid-drives. Speed is determined more by gearing than wattage or H.P. One of the best things about BBSXX mid-drives is that you can remove them and put them on a different bike if you want. If you have a bike sitting in the garage most likely you can mount a BBSHD on it and spend a year learning how to ride it then start looking for the perfect bike. You also want the largest battery (2) you can find. Remember that a Class-1 or 2 ebike isn't a little electric motorcycle.
For sure if I get more into it I will look into a long distance I'm the type of guy that will take a year off work and bike the country. I like your solar panel idea
 
For sure if I get more into it I will look into a long distance I'm the type of guy that will take a year off work and bike the country. I like your solar panel idea
If you plan on doing that the 3 things you will want are... a BBSHD, 3 or 4K watt-hours of battery space, and a frame that is going to fit the batteries. SunCapture doesn't make the solar panel I have anymore... too expensive and no one was buying them. I wish I would have got two now. It's 17 lbs. but it lets me ride places that have no infrastructure. If you plan on riding a lot you are going to need to know how to keep everything running, learn how to turn your own wrench.
 
If you plan on doing that the 3 things you will want are... a BBSHD, 3 or 4K watt-hours of battery space, and a frame that is going to fit the batteries. SunCapture doesn't make the solar panel I have anymore... too expensive and no one was buying them. I wish I would have got two now. It's 17 lbs. but it lets me ride places that have no infrastructure. If you plan on riding a lot you are going to need to know how to keep everything running, learn how to turn your own wrench.
I can do that. I was a fly fishing/survival guide for 3 years mechanics survival... being a dead head that's all I need
 
Do you have significant hills to deal with?

The motor alone will break your budget, the battery for your desired range will consume almost all of it alone.

You are already at the max weight for that type of bicycle, without electrifying and without doing close to 30mph on a regular basis. You need better shocks, better brakes, better tires, and better rims than that comes with. OR, reduce your speed.

If you insist on a crank-drive, and are OK with the extra expense, installation hassle, operational problems with shifting, and regular chain replacement, suggest you look at the TSDZ, with excellent custom firmware, consumer-developed, which includes a build-in torque sensor. No dealers paying shills to pimp the product, however. Oh, do examine the varying crank offsets which cause some people with knee issues significant problems.

If you do not have major hills, want a simpler, less expensive, less installation and operation hassle system, look at nearly maintenance-free hub motors. Some hope of keeping within your budget, by not blowing more than $500 on just the motor.
 
Do you have significant hills to deal with?

The motor alone will break your budget, the battery for your desired range will consume almost all of it alone.

You are already at the max weight for that type of bicycle, without electrifying and without doing close to 30mph on a regular basis. You need better shocks, better brakes, better tires, and better rims than that comes with. OR, reduce your speed.

If you insist on a crank-drive, and are OK with the extra expense, installation hassle, operational problems with shifting, and regular chain replacement, suggest you look at the TSDZ, with excellent custom firmware, consumer-developed, which includes a build-in torque sensor. No dealers paying shills to pimp the product, however. Oh, do examine the varying crank offsets which cause some people with knee issues significant problems.

If you do not have major hills, want a simpler, less expensive, less installation and operation hassle system, look at nearly maintenance-free hub motors. Some hope of keeping within your budget, by not blowing more than $500 on just the motor.
I have 0 hills I live in the main it's a lot of farm land. The knee thing is good to know. My right knee gives me trouble since my athlete days. I just thought the mid cranks were the community favorite. And I plan on cruising probably 15mph the 30mph was a top end speed.
 
I have 0 hills I live in the main it's a lot of farm land. The knee thing is good to know. My right knee gives me trouble since my athlete days. I just thought the mid cranks were the community favorite. And I plan on cruising probably 15mph the 30mph was a top end speed.
Only a favorite by people that are smart enough to buy or build one. If you want to go the cheap way throw a hub motor into the rear tire and scoot around.
 
I went for my first distance ride with that bike today I can see what your talking on the low end shocks n such. I definatly won't want to take the bike off road very fast when I do pull on the upgrade. But I'm OK with that I like tinkering.
 
Crank-drives are NOT a community favorite. Popular with most people. Notice they only ever pimp one single brand, and never, ever mention the very well-known issues I brought up.

They do make sense for those with many large hills, though there are definitely other options in that case. But, the pimps and fanbois NEVER ask if you have big hills to conquer. For those on mostly flat ground, crank-drives are just silly.

Oh, and the person posting above, has virtually zero technical knowledge and thinks regen braking recovers energy from disk brakes.
 
OK good points on both sides I will have to look into the hub motors more. Do front wheel tend to handle better then rear? And it is totally possible to gen brake on anything with an electric motor I have even seen motor brakes. I would assume that would brake the motor and not just grind the tires. Not that you would notice unless you were very frugal on the ride and don't waste power over breaking ot throttle mashing
 
Only Direct-Drive hub motors, and those few geared hubs with a locked clutch, offer regen braking. Recovers power, slows the motor, excellent control. Some newer ones can actually power the motor in reverse.

Crank drives do not offer regen braking. Yes there are other ways to do it but not on a bicycle.

Front hub does not affect handling much, IMO. Power should be limited to less than 1500 watts, and then only on steel forks. Front shock can be problematic with front motor. Acceleration causes binding. Torque arm reinforcements recommended. Limited traction on front wheel, easier to spin due to less weight.

Rear mount generally preferrable.
 
Hello everybody I am new. Happy June. So I recently just got a bike to commute around town when it's nice. Then I saw these conversion kits and decided to go for distance. That's the tragic back story.

I decided to go hardtail. I got the Huffy Rock creek 18 speed 29 in rim. If I'm not mistaken there were 48T on the chainring.

The current situation. I want to convert this to a class 2 ebike below 30 give or take and I would like to be able to cover 50 miles. The catch is I would like to do this conversion for under 500. I'm 6'1" 250lbs.

I guess what I need to know now is what v/w do I need and I am looking AT the BAFANG mid crank 48v 750w. Chainring 48T. SW102 display.
Thank you guys for the advice/help if I missed anything.
Using a 48v 20AH battery on mine does the job but I’m using two motors and two batteries they are ebikeling motors and the batteries are inside an ammo can on the rear rack the second battery is for a return trip if needed
 
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