Has anyone heard of the brand Meelod? What do you think about it?

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I looked at their website, and their bikes are cheaper than a lot of other brands—around $1,600. I also saw some review videos on YouTube, but I know most of those are paid, so they might not be reliable. What's the real riding experience like? And how's their customer service?
 
Never heard of them, so I'd assume they're a Chinese mushroom brand.
Tier 1; more on that here:
 
There are so many good ebike companies out there having holiday sales, why even bother with the "exorbitant number of vowels, no name brands" that are on the market? If you are looking for a moped style, This is a Biktrix for $1200 and there are tons of coupons around. It's a good time to look for quality.
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Far as mushroom brands go they all look to come from just a few factories and the quality all seems to be about the same. I bought one, a Ridstar E26 Pro knowing nothing at all about it other than it was the mushroom brand that included all the features I was looking for at a reasonable price. I've put a little over 500mi on it since October and I am so glad I bit the bullet and bought an E-bike. Buy what you find that you like that ticks all your boxes and best of luck!

One thing I am a LOT more leery of than some no name bike is buying a better known name that has specialized parts that ONLY fit that brand. At least with the mushroom brands the parts are fairly generic and there for interchangeable. YMMV
 
From what I see on their website, it looks like a budget version of the Super73. These types of bikes usually have great power and long battery life, so if you're looking for something for daily commuting, it seems pretty solid.
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There are so many good ebike companies out there having holiday sales, why even bother with the "exorbitant number of vowels, no name brands" that are on the market? If you are looking for a moped style, This is a Biktrix for $1200 and there are tons of coupons around. It's a good time to look for quality.
do you feel that Biktrix is not a Tier 1 mushroom brand?
 
Well, since they have a lifetime guarantee, showrooms across western Canada, a main store address in Saskatoon, a parts picker menu for easy repair on their website and an offer to custom build, if that is what you'd like, I would have to say no, not a mushroom brand. Can you even grow mushrooms in Canada?:unsure:
 

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Well, since they have a lifetime guarantee, showrooms across western Canada, a main store address in Saskatoon, a parts picker menu for easy repair on their website and an offer to custom build, if that is what you'd like, I would have to say no, not a mushroom brand. Can you even grow mushrooms in Canada?:unsure:
Ah, good to know, thanks for the reference. My nearest one is Minneapolis. (5.5 hour drive)

Biktrix is junk!
You should qualify that remark. Any personal experience or hearsay? If hearsay, from where?
 
HOW TO BUY A MUSHROOM BIKE

Typical mushroom brand bikes with 48V 750W hub motors and batteries in the 15–20Ah range can be found for under $1,000. Start by searching on Amazon and sorting by price. The entire market has been experiencing significant price drops recently, so dig deep below $1k. Once you’ve identified a few options, look for YouTube reviews of those models—you’ll almost always find discount codes included in the reviews.

Next, wait for a sale. By combining coupon codes and sales, you can typically shave $150–$200 off the retail price when purchasing directly from the manufacturer’s website. If you spot a bike you like on Amazon, check the manufacturer’s website—it often features similar pricing but also provides access to coupon codes and exclusive sales not reflected on Amazon. Keep in mind that shipping costs can also influence your final decision.

From what I’ve observed, many mushroom brands are actually part of a small collection of larger companies, each managing multiple brands. You can recognize these brands by their intentionally quirky or “crazy” names. If you pay attention to the designs (and sometimes even the underlying code) of the various manufacturer websites, you’ll quickly notice patterns that reveal affiliations and suggest they’re all run by the same holding company.

Mushroom brands are hilariously interconnected. I’m still trying to decipher the hidden logic behind their naming conventions. There seems to be a theme—perhaps an acronym or a coded reference—but I haven’t cracked it yet.
 
I wrote an easily understandable buying guide for some friends a while bike. These guys are going to commute like me so this advice skews that way. It's based on my personal opinions as well, so your mileage may vary....

Things I looked for when searching for an E-bike

E-Bike Class

  • If you can swing it, you want a Class 3 bike plain and simple.

  • I think the most important point to make is that the weight of your bike, your body weight and anything you want to take along for the ride no longer matters on a Class 3 and it makes for a good baseline when you are looking for a new bike.

  • You also want a Class 3 bike with pedals so that nobody can tell just by looking at it that it’s a Class 3. You want to blend in. The man will be coming after e-bikes like the Suron any day now. Those are super cool and very attractive BTW...
Hub motor vs mid-drive
  • Cost! Hub motors are far less expensive but they are 1 speed and will only go so fast where mid-drive motors essentially use all the bicycle gears as a transmission but the mid-drive bikes can be quite spendy.

  • For most commuters and recreational riders mid-drive is over kill.

  • You can only legally go so fast and cruising at ~25 mph is plenty fast for most people.

  • Keep in mind that hub motor bikes aren’t using high end components. Do you really want to go 50 mph on low end Chinese wheels with Chinese brakes?

  • How quickly you can get to that cruising speed matters and that’s why you want a larger watt motor and high voltage bike (48V or better). Hills are thing as well.

  • If you are full grown adult, get a 750 watt motor or you will be disappointed. Kids can probably do the 250 watt without complaint and many lighter men and women (~120 lbs) would probably be content with the 500 watt.

  • Ignore marketing bulls**t that lists “PEAK WATTAGE” You only care what size (wattage) the hub motor is. Its written right on the hub. You can usually see it in the pictures if they don’t list it in the specifications.
E-Bike Voltage
  • More voltage is better but it generally hits a point where there is plenty.

  • The more voltage you have on hand the quicker you tend to go.

  • Quick versus fast.

  • A 48v e-bike is the sweet spot right now. Don't buy anything less.
Battery Size / Range
  • It all comes down to how you travel. Round trip or can you charge at your destination?

  • IMHO don’t buy anything less than a 48v 14AH (amp hour) battery.

  • Marketing stating how many miles a bike will go is all bulls**t. It’s all about the size of the hub motor, the voltage and how many amp hours the battery provides.

  • A 14AH battery should get you at least 20 miles worth of all throttle range, but a 20AH+ battery is even better. Larger batteries add weight, but you don't really care unless you need carry your bike someplace on a regular basis.

  • You want an easily removable battery. This makes for convenient charging and if you’re going to keep your bike locked up someplace at home, a removable battery makes all the difference. You want to keep your battery in climate controlled areas if you can.
Weight – Do not fear the weight unless you plan to carry the thing around.
  • They all have Aluminum frames.

  • Larger batteries can add dozens of miles of range but weigh more. You no longer care about weight.

  • Larger 750 watt motors weigh more. Again who cares. However smaller people can run smaller motors and it could increase your range if you have places to go that are often far away.

  • You want the largest battery you can manage.
  • Bigger guys will want the heavier 750 Watt hub motor.
  • Full sized bikes with long ranges will usually come in between 80 and 100lbs.

  • Smaller foldable e-bikes will usually have smaller batteries and will usually be in the 60 to 80lbs range.

  • You can get really light bikes (~40lbs) but full sized humans won’t get far on them and you won’t get there quickly.

  • All of these bikes will have a maximum load capacity. The higher the capacity the more durable the frame will be.
Brakes
  • Remember what I said about weight not mattering... Well the brakes are going to suck on these heavy pigs. You need to have hydraulic brakes or you will be risking your life out there.

  • In my brief experience... Even low end hydraulic brakes are far superior to mechanical.

  • Prepare to be disappointed with brake performance. You can spend hundreds of dollars upgrading your brakes and you will only get marginally better performance. I'm working on adapting motorcycle brakes to e-bikes and if it works out I'll let you know. Moto brake kits are super cheap, starting at like $25.
Throttle
  • A throttle is quite handy as pedal assist isn't very smooth on most of these bikes. You can sometimes adjust settings to smooth out the pedal assist but I find that constant use of the throttle makes for a more satisfying ride.

  • You want a twist (or thumb) throttle especially if you are trying to avoid sweating. Pedaling will make you sweat.

  • A throttle allows you to dress for the destination.

  • You don’t want to be all sweaty when you get to work.

  • You don’t want to change your clothes when you get to work.

  • It allows you to dress for the office the same as if you had driven.
Fenders
  • You want a bike with fenders or you’re going to get your work clothes filthy, especially on wet roads.

  • You can add fenders on pretty much any bike that doesn’t come with them for about $15.
Lights
  • You need a headlight and a tail light.

  • You can strap on individually battery operated lights ($7-$20) but you really want a bike that has a handle bar switched light that runs off the main battery. I can't even tell you how many times I had to ride in the dark because my bar mounted light ran out of power. It's pretty easy and inexpensive to install a light run off your main that is plenty bright, it just takes a little figuring.

  • If a bike doesn't come with a tail light, it’s not very difficult to add, but again, you want to power this light off your main battery. If not and you go with an individually battery operated light, you will forget to turn it off, or you will forget to charge it and you will riding in the dark without a tail light without even realizing it half the time.
Ergonomics
  • You need to buy a bike with a frame size that complements your height. Most bikes will give a range in the description.

  • Handlebars height, width, angle, and so on can either be adjusted to fit or replaced with items that will fit your dimensions. You want a comfortable fit. It's probably the most important thing to consider when buying a bike.

  • I outfitted my bike at the Boise Bicycle Collective with a few used parts to fix the ergos. They have hundreds of take off's in every shape and size. I bought a wider handle bar for $5 and a stem with a steep angle on it for $7. Both in like new condition.
Suspension
  • I like the suspension forks up front but a full suspension (adding a rear shock) is over kill for riding on streets and even occasional dirt paths. Unless you live in the third world, a hard tail is perfect for the street IMHO.

  • If you want to trail ride for real, you should invest in a mid drive bike any way. But even on dirt "paths" a hard tailed hub motor bike is plenty.

  • Again, these hub motor bikes have low end components. You don’t want to be abusing them on uneven terrain if you can avoid it. I wouldn't do to much off-roading on these bikes, stuff will break and break often.
Wheel Size
  • Remember, the weight of the bike no longer matters. You can run larger wheels and not even notice.

  • I prefer larger and wider tires. 26” Fat Tire wheels are awesome.

  • Larger wheels make for a smooth ride.

  • Fat Tire bikes can ride up curbs and you almost don’t even feel it.

  • Smaller 20” wheels will also work, but I would still recommend the fat tire profile.

  • IMHO typical skinny pedal bike type wheels at speed are kind of sketchy on these bikes, they aren’t exactly precision instruments.

  • Big fat tires are the way to go but they also make some robust 26" mountain bike style tires that look pretty worthy.

  • You want more rubber on your tires. Avoid knobby tires on the street. Sure knobs are great on dirt but those spaces between the knobs are prone to punctures. The more rubber you have on a tire, the less likely you will be to get a flat tire.
Bike Racks (or not)
  • I prefer a back pack since I store my bike inside the office. The rack makes everything more bulky when dragging an e-bike through the building.

  • A rack is still a worthy edition and some bike frames will have tubular racks built into the frame that will work far better than any rack you can bolt on. If you want a bike with a rack on it, choose a bike frame that comes with a built in rack from the factory. They will be more sturdy that way and they usually look far better compared to bolting one on.
Helmet
  • You can’t be cruising around at ~25 mph without a helmet. E-bikes are still sort of new and cars aren’t expecting you to be going 25 either. It feels like I get cut off way more often than on a pedal bike.

  • I highly suggest a full face helmet like they use on downhill mountain bikes. Dirt bike helmets are essentially the same thing and cost about half the price. Crashing at 30 is far more violent than crashing at 10 mph on conventional bicycle. You want a worthy helmet.
Cost 2024
  • Don’t spend more than a thousand dollars on a hub drive bike unless it has a dual motor set up.

  • At the moment bike prices are cratering and I don’t think they have hit bottom.

  • Any day now they will bottom out so don’t wait too long.

  • The bike I described above should cost about $800 to $1000.
  • Just a year or so ago, these same bikes cost over $2500.
All hub motor E-Bikes are the Same
  • All hub motor e-bikes are essentially built from the same cheap components. There is very little difference between manufacturers.

  • I suspect these aren’t really “manufacturers”, rather they order bikes based on some unique looking designs from the same factory that makes them all in China.

  • Look closely at e-bikes and you will see they all have similar common parts. Some are exactly the same brand, others are exact clones with a different brand and still others may have a slightly different look but are engineered exactly the same.
You are buying a set of parts, you should have no loyalty to any specific brand.
  • Don’t worry about “support” or even warranty's really. These bikes are all dead simple to repair and since they all use the same parts, parts are easy (and cheap) to source. It’s a beautiful thing. If you want to torture yourself, try arguing with a guy 16 time zones away who not only doesn't speak English natively, he isn't likely to send you anything worthwhile anyway. This comes down to how much is your time worth? e-Bike parts are usually pretty cheap overall, you can source parts and easily fix these things yourself.
 
I think you started with some assumptions that are not applicable to all commuters. 750 W motor minimum and biggest battery possible assumes that the rider doesn't want to provide a significant proportion of the power. It's certainly not the case for me.

You're wrong about them all using the same parts.

You're also wrong about "peak Watts don't matter". Many manufacturers are trying to (theoretically) stay within the law by advertising 750 W motors, as that's the max. that's allowed in the US eBike Class system. Then, they sneakily publish peak Watts with no stated duty cycle, leading us to believe that this nominally-rated 750 W motor can actually pump out 1300 W or more for some undisclosed time. Or the other, way: Maybe the motor is "rated" 1200 W, but it is saddled with a controller that can only provide 700 W. It's just not that simple for you to make a hard & fast rule like that. This is where brand loyalty comes into play a bit. The motor on my humble little Lectric XP Lite is only 350 W, but it pulls pretty hard, because it has an adequate controller and decent battery.

I had a ChiComm Sailnovo that also had a 350 W motor, but I didn't think at the time of purchase to check the battery specs. (36 V, lower capacity) and the controller specs were not published. That thing was a wimp-mobile compared to the XP Lite because the motor never saw 350 W. (even if it could've handled it!)

Saying the bike weight doesn't matter unless you'll be lifting it is not quite right either, since at some point, maybe you'll be pushing it. (unplanned)

What you're proposing is more of an under-the-radar moped rather than a bicycle with electric assist when wanted.

I've done both, and ultimately, the one that was more bicycle-like was more satisfying, (Level.2 @ 48 V, 13 Ah w/500 W motor) where my 1,000 W 'eBike' with dual 52 V, 20 Ah batteries wound up being overkill for my eBike needs and underkill for my moped needs.
 
>>750 W motor minimum and biggest battery possible assumes that the rider doesn't want to provide a significant proportion of the power.
Not trying to be facetious here but I have not come across anybody yet who has complained their e-bike has too much power. My friends are mostly coming off dirt bikes (both gas and electric) and not touring bicycles though. It could be the company I keep.

We may differ on opinion but I think the purest form of a commuter bike is all about getting to work. 100% getting there and 0% recreation and exercise. The pedals are a compromise on the ideal commuter bike. They exist to make it look like your riding a bicycle or to get you moving much like your moped analogy implies. Its just a different take on it when compared to riding for recreation or exercise and what I think you are suggesting is that you can do both at the same time, and I agree with that concept as well. But that makes it more of a hybrid and that's not what I was recommending for dedicated commuting.

>>You're wrong about them all using the same parts.
I'm specifically talking about cheap, low-end e-bikes. If you’re willing to spend 50% to 100% more on a high-quality e-bike with proprietary parts, you’ll likely get your money’s worth. I should probably clarify that I mean "interchangeable parts." My advice is focused on inexpensive e-bikes, based on my own research.

Most cheap hub motors are nearly identical in design, with only minor variations. You’ll often find the same suspension forks, low-end Shimano shifters, wheels, tires, and other common components across many low quality bikes. In my opinion, these bikes are anything but proprietary, making it easy to source inexpensive (though still low-quality) replacement parts that fit just like the originals. In many cases, you can even upgrade the bike by swapping parts for ones with better performance characteristics, all while keeping costs surprisingly low.

>>Saying the bike weight doesn't matter unless you'll be lifting it is not quite right either, since at some point, maybe you'll be pushing it. (unplanned)
I have a different take on this. If my bike breaks down unexpectedly, I’m not pushing it any farther than the nearest thing to lock it to. It’s similar to what we do with dirt bikes—when they break down miles from the truck, we don’t push them; we bring the truck to them. The same logic applies to e-bikes, especially on the street, where it’s even easier to manage. That said, if you need to carry your bike up three flights of stairs to your apartment, weight is definitely something to keep in mind.

>>What you're proposing is more of an under-the-radar moped rather than a bicycle with electric assist when wanted.
Yes, that is a good way to put it and I think that thought aligns well with what a pure commuter is after. A moped you can ride on bike paths without issues. None of my crew are what you would call enthusiasts. These bikes are for transportation, not recreation. The fact that they are a hoot to ride around on is just a happy bonus, but what they really are, is incredibly convenient.

When it comes to power on low end bikes... I recommend buyers look up the specs of the motor itself to confirm what they are actually getting. It's not always listed in postings or advertisements but you can often determine the motor manufacturer and even the model number of hub motors from pictures and video reviews of an e-bike. I also believe that the motor manufacturer is less likely to get creative with the specs.

From there I think you should focus on the base platform and determine the voltage of the battery, the AH of the battery, and the rated wattage of the motor. We may disagree on this but I still think peak wattage is a fickle thing to determine, and I wouldn't trust any bottom end e-bike manufacturers statements on the subject. They will say what they want because they won't care if buyers lose confidence in a brand that may only be around for 2 or 3 years. They aren't looking for repeat buyers.

And its not a blanket statement... This is for cheap bikes. Well known manufactures are less likely to fabricate truly absurd claims of power and speed because they have a reputation to maintain.
 
Ah, that's a good way to frame it.

I see your point about "pure commuters", but I'm not one of those people who avoids exercise. May as well just have a scooter/moped if that's what you're going for.

I kind of like the eBike for commuting because I can get enough exercise that it counts as such, but not so much that I arrive sweaty all the time.
 
Has anyone heard of the brand Meelod?
Yes but only because they spammed our forum using multiple accounts by posting back and forth to each other and linking to their website.

What do you think about it?
I think they should stop spamming forums and focus on other ways to market their product. Spamming just makes us suspicious of their product and anyone who mentions it!
 
Has anyone heard of the brand Meelod?
Yes but only because they spammed our forum using multiple accounts by posting back and forth to each other and linking to their website.

What do you think about it?
I think they should stop spamming forums and focus on other ways to market their product. Spamming just makes us suspicious of their product and anyone who mentions it!

They never seem to learn :shrug:
 
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