Hall Sensor Issue/Motor Replacement

[Tuckerfan]

My Phnholun Seeker 24 bike threw an error code for the hall sensor tonight. The bike still moves under its own power, but not as fast as it did. I got it home, but it's too dark for me to inspect the wiring to see if there's any obvious problems. (I'll do that in the morning.) Worst case scenario, if I have to replace the motor, can someone point me to the replacement motor? And any pointers as to what to do to fix this problem without replacing the motor would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Annieolnie]

Your bike's motor appears to be 52 volts. If you post a pic of the motor cord plug, i can take a look around. What size tires does your bike have and is it the single or dual motor model?

 

[Tuckerfan]

Your bike's motor appears to be 52 volts. If you post a pic of the motor cord plug, i can take a look around. What size tires does your bike have and is it the single or dual motor model?

It's a dual motor, the tires are 24x4. Here's a pic of the rear wheel, where I think the problem is. Both wheels still turn, I'll note.

 

[Annieolnie]

If you undo your plug does it look exactly like this? Notice the small hall sensor pin positions.

 

[Tuckerfan]

That looks like it. Here’s some pics.
It looks like the wire somehow got wrapped around the axle in a way that’s impossible. I won’t know for sure until I get the wheel off and take a good look at it.

 

[biknut]

If your motor cable got wrapped around the axle, that sounds like the torque arms failed.

 

[Tuckerfan]

If your motor cable got wrapped around the axle, that sounds like the torque arms failed.

I don't think so. I managed to pull the wheel off, and get the cable free. It was dark, so I couldn't really see if there was any visible damage to the wire. It didn't feel damaged. Got the wheel back on, hooked the motor cable back up, turned the bike on, and still got the error message. I'm hearing some grinding occassionally from the rear wheel, when I push the bike, so there might be some internal damage to the motor. I probably won't have time to pull it apart until this weekend. Not sure what I'm going to do if I need a new motor.

 

[Annieolnie]

YLS L915 is a tricky plug to find. The Engwe L20 2.0 has that style motor in 52v, but how you get any Chinese motor in the current climate is beyond me. I have a couple of parts on order and they may never show up because the container ships are ony half full and they are not going to cross the Pacific unless their orders increase. Then you have the fact that the tariff literally triples the price. I had a $19.00 replacement plug ring up at $62.00. There are some sellers on Ebay who still have stock already in the US. You can get a Bafang full 52v wheel but you would need to change the motor plug over to the L915 because the Bafang comes with the hexagonal plug that is also impossible to find adapters for. Amazon still has a YLS L915 extension which you can buy to solder into the Bafang or any motor you can find. I'll just post what I came up with here. I would suggest you hang onto all of your motor cables in case you need to fit them in somewhere else. Let us know what you find inside the motor and good luck.

 

[Annieolnie]

I had one more thought, you could solder your L915 cable to a female Bafang adapter which is available on Ebay, then you would have a separate adapter and wouldn't have to take apart a new motor. You would have to do a lot of pinout continuity testing, but it would be independent of the motor. Grin Technologies had the pinout diagram ignore the left hand side.

 

[biknut]

These are the plugs I like to use. XT150, and Julet 6 conductor. Once you learn to solder your own plugs you're free from having to buy expensive factory parts like motors and controllers.