https://electricbike-blog.com/2017/0...the-first-try/
This guy has done it all --- commuters, trails, mud, snow, with many different DIY e-bikes. He basically says for dirt try 42t first, and if that's not good enough for climbing you can go down to about 36t, but below that, you'd better have some really wide tires to take the torque or things may start breaking (especially with his 2500+W motors!!!).
Some interesting snippets:
My Little Bronie – (42T/34-11T/26″) BBSHD with Ludicrous controller 42T Luna ring and a 9-speed cassette with 34-11T range and normal 26″ rims with 2.25″ tires. I don’t care about this bike so it’s the one that gets thrashed on when I go on trips. It sucks pedaling uphill when the battery dies, but this ebike shreds the trails and you can still pedal along at 30mph.
For different mid drives, there are a plethora of aftermarket chainrings out there in a variety of different sizes. The biggest appeal of the 42T Lekkie and 42T Luna chainrings are that they are big enough to completely surround the secondary reduction gear and move the chain line back towards the bike by over 2 centimeters. That might not sound like much, but I assure you, when dealing with adding a mid drive a cm is a lot of offset. The best case scenario is to have the chain-line line up with the middle of the cassette, but that rarely happens. Most of the time it is farther away from the bike and lines up with the higher gears. While this is fine for commuters, it sucks for trail riding machines and deep snow bikes because you spend almost all your time in the lower granny gears.
For 20-24″ wheels and a normal cassette, the 42T is a good bet. For 26″ wheels and a normal cassette I generally use a 34T-36T chainring although the 42T can be made to work if you’re not running fatty tires. For 26″ fat tires, 27+, 29er or 29er + tires I would go with a 30T-34T depending on the tire diameter. Bigger tire diameter means go with the smaller chainring. For any IGH system, I would start with a 42T chainring or smaller then adjust the speed/power range by swapping out the rear cogs, you might have to get a super large cog from ebay but using a 42T chainring will give you the cleanest chain line which is super important with an IGH. I really like the CS-S500 cog ($13 on ebay) which comes in 18T/20T sizes (the 20T is a safer bet). For CVTs you can also use the 42T chainring and experiment with cogs sizes, for a 26″ tire you’ll probably settle on the 22T like I did. Be aware that the power limit for keeping your CVT under warranty is only a scant 250W.
This guy has done it all --- commuters, trails, mud, snow, with many different DIY e-bikes. He basically says for dirt try 42t first, and if that's not good enough for climbing you can go down to about 36t, but below that, you'd better have some really wide tires to take the torque or things may start breaking (especially with his 2500+W motors!!!).
Some interesting snippets:
My Little Bronie – (42T/34-11T/26″) BBSHD with Ludicrous controller 42T Luna ring and a 9-speed cassette with 34-11T range and normal 26″ rims with 2.25″ tires. I don’t care about this bike so it’s the one that gets thrashed on when I go on trips. It sucks pedaling uphill when the battery dies, but this ebike shreds the trails and you can still pedal along at 30mph.
For different mid drives, there are a plethora of aftermarket chainrings out there in a variety of different sizes. The biggest appeal of the 42T Lekkie and 42T Luna chainrings are that they are big enough to completely surround the secondary reduction gear and move the chain line back towards the bike by over 2 centimeters. That might not sound like much, but I assure you, when dealing with adding a mid drive a cm is a lot of offset. The best case scenario is to have the chain-line line up with the middle of the cassette, but that rarely happens. Most of the time it is farther away from the bike and lines up with the higher gears. While this is fine for commuters, it sucks for trail riding machines and deep snow bikes because you spend almost all your time in the lower granny gears.
For 20-24″ wheels and a normal cassette, the 42T is a good bet. For 26″ wheels and a normal cassette I generally use a 34T-36T chainring although the 42T can be made to work if you’re not running fatty tires. For 26″ fat tires, 27+, 29er or 29er + tires I would go with a 30T-34T depending on the tire diameter. Bigger tire diameter means go with the smaller chainring. For any IGH system, I would start with a 42T chainring or smaller then adjust the speed/power range by swapping out the rear cogs, you might have to get a super large cog from ebay but using a 42T chainring will give you the cleanest chain line which is super important with an IGH. I really like the CS-S500 cog ($13 on ebay) which comes in 18T/20T sizes (the 20T is a safer bet). For CVTs you can also use the 42T chainring and experiment with cogs sizes, for a 26″ tire you’ll probably settle on the 22T like I did. Be aware that the power limit for keeping your CVT under warranty is only a scant 250W.
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