Randroid - I did measure the output voltage (battery out of the bike, key turned on) when the first failure occurred at 3.09 volts, clearly bad. I will also check the motor connections.
Anneiolnie - I thought about the brake cutoffs also but they seem to be fine and besides, could they cause the system and display to shutdown and prevent rebooting? Anyway I will try disconnecting and reconnecting those cables.
But it's getting a little weirder. It's intermittent. When I quit working on the bike Sunday afternoon, I left it on the back porch. When I started working on it again on Monday 1
m, the bike was in full sunlight and it was warmer, 65F, and it fired right up. I measured those same output pins and got a reading of 52.5 volts. So, thinking that this was a one-off random failure, I reinstalled the battery and took it for several hard and fast laps around my block and it was working fine, until it went completely dead again after about two miles. I peddled back home and proceeded to remove and re-measure the batt. output pins: 52volts. I reinstalled the battery and once again it fired right up.
So thinking that something in the battery is intermittent, I took it apart as much as possible without doing major surgery to check for a cracked fuse or a loose wire somewhere.
If you guys have the Emojo Caddy Pro, you may already know this but the fuse-holder that's accessible from the outside of the battery case is a fake. No fuse inside and the terminals of this component inside the case are not hooked to anything.
I removed 8 screws from the case and removed the top and bottom caps of the battery assembly. Unless you suspect something wrong with the connections from the bottom of the battery to the bike terminals, or you want to try removing the battery pack from its case, you could skip removing the bottom cap. All of the electronics is in the top of the case underneath the handle.
The real (30A) fuse is indeed an ATO blade fuse located internal to the case. A continuity check revealed that it was fine, but I figured I'd swap in a new one anyway. Attached are several pics of the minor surgery. The battery case is not split-able. It's a one-piece aluminum extrusion. Apparently the battery pack is meant to slide in from one end or the other and then glued in place with some white silicone adhesive. For this exercise I decided not to try to remove the pack from the case. I examined every cable and wire, replaced the fuse, unwrapped and re-wrapped the BMS circuit board (green paper) and put it all back together. 52 volts at the output connector again and the bike fires right up.
more later...
