Freed up a few bucks, ordered the Motor Goat V3 with accessories.

I may have to work on my mount/dismount technique. When I am tired, swinging my leg over the basket can be tough. Stepping over the seat and sliding down is an "unpracticed skills which almost created drama today".
 
It is all aluminum on the frame and rack. Even the basket is aluminum. After the second battery is installed, I suspect it will tip the scales at about 120 pounds (with the added weight of the rack, basket, 2nd battery, and all the goodies I keep on every ride (Two locks, two cable sets, repair kits, patch kits, medical kit).
Ok thanks. I was curious what material they were using.
 
Nice!

This is a random question but how is the overall noise level compared to other ebikes you've had? Feel like good handling for mixed use on all terrains... road, gravel, dirt trail?
 
Nice!

This is a random question but how is the overall noise level compared to other eBikes you've had? Feel like good handling for mixed use on all terrains... road, gravel, dirt trail?
Noise level is on par with my Zeegr S1, which is a dual 1Kw motor eBike. But, it is much quieter than any Gasoline bike I have ridden.
They modulate the three-phase wave at low speeds to make acceleration more gentle. Under these conditions, the motor makes more noise than when you are tagging it at full throttle. At higher wattages, the raw 3-phase Sine wave drive is not modulated, so it sounds softer.

The Goat "claims 2.6Kw, but power actually climbs to 3Kw under acceleration in the top PAS mode.

The factory tires are Innova, 30 PSI street-hybrid tires. I wouldn't want to take it in the snow or mud, but I suspect gravel and packed dirt would be no problem. This bike was optimized for running fast on the street. The front and rear suspension are adjustable, so a serious rider would adjust it for the preferred surface they ride on. I ride on the streets, and so "the ride/handling/suspension" is optimized for that surface. For street riding I prefer "critically damped" (slightly less compression with very constrained rebound), as this enhances control. If I was wanting to do some bouncy off-road riding, the suspension would definitely be tuned softer.
 
Noise level is on par with my Zeegr S1, which is a dual 1Kw motor eBike. But, it is much quieter than any Gasoline bike I have ridden.
They modulate the three-phase wave at low speeds to make acceleration more gentle. Under these conditions, the motor makes more noise than when you are tagging it at full throttle. At higher wattages, the raw 3-phase Sine wave drive is not modulated, so it sounds softer.

The Goat "claims 2.6Kw, but power actually climbs to 3Kw under acceleration in the top PAS mode.

The factory tires are Innova, 30 PSI street-hybrid tires. I wouldn't want to take it in the snow or mud, but I suspect gravel and packed dirt would be no problem. This bike was optimized for running fast on the street. The front and rear suspension are adjustable, so a serious rider would adjust it for the preferred surface they ride on. I ride on the streets, and so "the ride/handling/suspension" is optimized for that surface. For street riding I prefer "critically damped" (slightly less compression with very constrained rebound), as this enhances control. If I was wanting to do some bouncy off-road riding, the suspension would definitely be tuned softer.
I’m still leaning towards motor goat or freego style and debating between the two.

Trying to justify it by having an every day backroad cruiser that can do a little bit of everything, pavement to hunting stand through hill country. Getting to the hunting stand across some hilly acreage is/was a main reason but wouldn’t be the most use throughout the year.

To get that I know I’ll probably need more aggressive tread tires for gravel/trails and it’ll all be a little give and take… maybe not the big knobby ones @DieselTech first tried because I don’t have the patience for that.

Pros and cons of each (Goat: power, cast wheels - Freego: dual motor/battery) but think the goat is in the slight lead overall… but that changes every time I read through each post. lol

Start with just bike, build my own rack ($250 for a not needed sissy bar and rack?!), and see if the goat second battery is worth it or if a better battery option comes out since there’s already some 3rd party ones. And go from there?
 
I’m still leaning towards motor goat or freego style and debating between the two.

Trying to justify it by having an every day backroad cruiser that can do a little bit of everything, pavement to hunting stand through hill country. Getting to the hunting stand across some hilly acreage is/was a main reason but wouldn’t be the most use throughout the year.

To get that I know I’ll probably need more aggressive tread tires for gravel/trails and it’ll all be a little give and take… maybe not the big knobby ones @DieselTech first tried because I don’t have the patience for that.

Pros and cons of each (Goat: power, cast wheels - Freego: dual motor/battery) but think the goat is in the slight lead overall… but that changes every time I read through each post. lol

Start with just bike, build my own rack ($250 for a not needed sissy bar and rack?!), and see if the goat second battery is worth it or if a better battery option comes out since there’s already some 3rd party ones. And go from there?
You hit on a key component of purchase decisions. There is no such thing as a "perfect eBike". There is only an eBike which best matches your personal objectives and needs. This is why there are so many happy riders, with very different eBikes.

In my case, the top three contenders were the Wired Freedom, eCells, and the Motor Goat v3. What tipped the scales for me was the available second battery for the goat as a factory option, and street features (such as factory turn signals) which the other two choices lacked (back in March when the purchase decision was made). I already had a dual motor eBike (Zeegr) and found myself running it in single-motor mode about 95% of the time. Single-motor mode uses less power from the battery, and on level ground gives about the same top speed as dual motor mode. But, if my goal had been primarily Sand and Snow use, the Zeegr would have been one of my top choices. The "TailHappy" YouTube video showed the Zeegr going 19 MPH in dry sand, which is a great demonstration of both torque and power. Few other eBikes he has tested can match that feat. The funny thing is, he did not mention that in his video, you simply had to watch that section of the review and catch a glimpse of the speedometer as he was running the dry sand part of his scenario.

I actually want to do a "drag race" with those two eBikes (Zeegr, Goat) to 25 MPH and see which wins. The Zeeger is rated at 164 Newton meters of torque, whereas the Goat only claims 110 Newton meter. But the goat understates its total power, which tells me the advertised torque figure may be low on the goat. I suspect the Zeegr overstates its torque figure.
 
some things done recently.
1. Calibrated wheel size to give an accurate speed. Changed from 24 inches to 22.8 inches. Now the speedometer matches GPS speed.

2. Finally got around to putting some flat-out in the tires. Keep in mind the Goat has some rather solid cast mag wheels. On my other eBikes, there was a bit of imbalance for the first mile of riding after the Flat Out was put in, but the fluid eventually got distributed and the imbalance went away. With the Goat, there were no perceptible imbalance from the Flat Out, probably because the wheels have more mass.

3. The big honking 25 Amp Hour 60 volt "fuel tank" battery had some movement side to side. This was because the battery pack screwed down to 3 threaded ferrules which stick up about a 16th of an inch above the frame. I realized that by adding high-density foam insulation between the threaded ferrules, the base for the battery would be much more solidly supported. Some High density foam was carefully sliced in flat into layers from a block. The block had been rescued from the packing material another eBike had been packed with.

6 Fuel tank battery pack.jpg
1 battery base rocks on studs.JPG
2 dense black foam put in to stabilize base.JPG
 
A scuff was noticed on the top of the rear fender. It was isolated to contact with the "tag holder" which hangs under the Tail light. I unbolted the tail light and tried to remove the tag holder. However, the cable for the tail light ran through a hole on the tag holder. The rear seat was removed (5 Allen-head bolts), and the tail light connector was unplugged. The cable was pulled back through the tag holder. Then the next issue was the tag holder acted as a spacer to keep the tail light cable from getting crushed/pinched. I had some spare fender washers and some 1/4-20 stainless nuts sitting around, and used them as spacers between the tail light and the bracket, to move the tail light further back from the bracket (which would have pinched the tail light cable). A zip tie was added to neaten up the cable, so it would not hang.

3 Rack before tag hanger removed.jpg
4 rub on fender from tag hanger.JPG
5 tag hanger which rubs fender.JPG
 
some things done recently.
1. Calibrated wheel size to give an accurate speed. Changed from 24 inches to 22.8 inches. Now the speedometer matches GPS speed.

2. Finally got around to putting some flat-out in the tires. Keep in mind the Goat has some rather solid cast mag wheels. On my other eBikes, there was a bit of imbalance for the first mile of riding after the Flat Out was put in, but the fluid eventually got distributed and the imbalance went away. With the Goat, there were no perceptible imbalance from the Flat Out, probably because the wheels have more mass.

3. The big honking 25 Amp Hour 60 volt "fuel tank" battery had some movement side to side. This was because the battery pack screwed down to 3 threaded ferrules which stick up about a 16th of an inch above the frame. I realized that by adding high-density foam insulation between the threaded ferrules, the base for the battery would be much more solidly supported. Some High density foam was carefully sliced in flat into layers from a block. The block had been rescued from the packing material another eBike had been packed with.

View attachment 15141View attachment 15136View attachment 15137
Ordered mine earlier this week so still got a wait but all good things to know. I’m in a couple of the Facebook groups too.
 
some things done recently.
1. Calibrated wheel size to give an accurate speed. Changed from 24 inches to 22.8 inches. Now the speedometer matches GPS speed.

2. Finally got around to putting some flat-out in the tires. Keep in mind the Goat has some rather solid cast mag wheels. On my other eBikes, there was a bit of imbalance for the first mile of riding after the Flat Out was put in, but the fluid eventually got distributed and the imbalance went away. With the Goat, there were no perceptible imbalance from the Flat Out, probably because the wheels have more mass.

3. The big honking 25 Amp Hour 60 volt "fuel tank" battery had some movement side to side. This was because the battery pack screwed down to 3 threaded ferrules which stick up about a 16th of an inch above the frame. I realized that by adding high-density foam insulation between the threaded ferrules, the base for the battery would be much more solidly supported. Some High density foam was carefully sliced in flat into layers from a block. The block had been rescued from the packing material another eBike had been packed with.

View attachment 15141View attachment 15136View attachment 15137
Hey @addertooth would you by chance be nice enough to take a couple pics of your fuel tank battery connection at the battery & the battery plate connection. I'm curious what connector/ terminal body Motor Goat is using on their Canon 1 fuel tank battery.

Thanks.
 
Hey @addertooth would you by chance be nice enough to take a couple pics of your fuel tank battery connection at the battery & the battery plate connection. I'm curious what connector/ terminal body Motor Goat is using on their Canon 1 fuel tank battery.

Thanks.
Here are two pictures. One is of the baseplate connections; the other is the mating connector on the 25 Amp Hour battery.
1 Baseplate scaled.jpg
2 Battery 25 Ah scaled.jpg
 
Here are two pictures. One is of the baseplate connections; the other is the mating connector on the 25 Amp Hour battery.
View attachment 15142View attachment 15143
Thanks addertooth. I figured I would not get soo lucky. I was hoping Motor Goat used the same battery connection as my Freego bike. My Freego bike the connector looks like that, but only has 2 of the small pins in the center of the terminal instead of 4.

Thanks I appreciate your time & trouble.
 
Thanks addertooth. I figured I would not get soo lucky. I was hoping Motor Goat used the same battery connection as my Freego bike. My Freego bike the connector looks like that, but only has 2 of the small pins in the center of the terminal instead of 4.

Thanks I appreciate your time & trouble.
No problem. I am happy to help.
There is a distinct lack of significant standardization in battery connections in the industry. I think I have 4 or 5 different styles of connectors among all my eBike batteries on hand. On the Motor Goat v3, only the two major pins are wired running back to the controller. The 4 small pins are not used.
 
No problem. I am happy to help.
There is a distinct lack of significant standardization in battery connections in the industry. I think I have 4 or 5 different styles of connectors among all my eBike batteries on hand. On the Motor Goat v3, only the two major pins are wired running back to the controller. The 4 small pins are not used.
I think my Freego only uses the 2 big out board pins/terminals as well. But I would need to check to be positive thou.

For some reason Freego won't sell me a fuel tank battery as of yet. They tell me the ones they do have are for production bikes at this time. They will sell me the 20ah hailong style battery fairly reasonable thou.

Thanks.
 
I must admit I am seriously considering the 50 Amp hour (Ah) battery which is made to fit in the space beneath the Tank battery.
It is around $1500, but will give a combined capacity of 75 Ah for the Goat. The YouTube personality "Maximum Charge" is promoting a link to get them. Goat Power Bikes is working on a similar offering at this time, but does not have them for sale yet. I think the Maximum Charge version comes with an 80 amp battery blender, for those who want to "enhance" their goat with a hotter controller.
 
I must admit I am seriously considering the 50 Amp hour (Ah) battery which is made to fit in the space beneath the Tank battery.
It is around $1500, but will give a combined capacity of 75 Ah for the Goat. The YouTube personality "Maximum Charge" is promoting a link to get them. Goat Power Bikes is working on a similar offering at this time, but does not have them for sale yet. I think the Maximum Charge version comes with an 80 amp battery blender, for those who want to "enhance" their goat with a hotter controller.
Which vid is he promoting them?
 
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