Fiido T1 Review

"A"

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Interesting spin on the Radrunner..


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I bought one few weeks ago, it arrived within a week of placing the order online.
I wish it was warmer & streets are not covered with snow so I could put some miles on the Fiido T1.
 
I've always wanted a Radrunner since it came out, but the lack of gears really prevented me from getting one, since the area that I ride involve hills.

The cast wheels on the Fiido also a nice feature from the spoke & nipple wheels that would require maintenance.

It seems that the Fiido has taller standover height than the Radrunner, also the minimum seat height may limit the range for shorter riders.

I hope the weather gets nice soon so I can take it out for a nice ride to provide further review.
 
750w hub motor has plenty of acceleration from stop.
Suspension fork has some damping element, top-out bumper or hydraulic I can't be sure, but it is nice & smooth through its travel.
The Fiido T1 comes with a pretty large chainring, I guess they have this bike cruising at 20 mph with low cadence required from the rider.
I didn't have any problem removing the battery at all, the seatpost quick release clamp area is a little tight, but not so tight that it would prevent the battery to be removed.
Below is the lowest seat height for the T1, I'm 5'9", I could stand over the seat at the lowest seat height, but with shorter legged rider, there might be a problem finding a good fit.
Suspension seatpost is very long, about 550mm, I think it weighs over 5 lb., too. Likely the first place to lose weight from the T1.
I replaced the OEM front axle to a quick-release axle, just make it easier on myself to take front wheel on & off the bike.
I like the cast wheels, not much heavier than spoked wheels, but likely last longer without maintenance.
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I'm thinking of getting this bike myself as it's pretty much my perfect bike, but I live in hilly wales so I was doing some research on how to add a Mid Drive conversion kit. Not many will fit into the 98mm gap between the downtube and crossbar but I was talking with Paco at Cyclone and Apparently the 1680W cyclone will fit, as the Square gearbox section is 90mm wide. Might just need to cut out new mounting plates which isn't too hard

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Let me know how she holds up (y)
 
Depending on how much you weigh, adding a mid-drive to existing hub-motor ebike may be overkill for power output.
The added weight of additional motor/extra battery/controller, would just make the already hefty ebike even more hefty.
If steep hills with long distance climbing is what's involved in every single ride you do, a mid-drive motor ebike would be more ideal.
Maybe it's just me, but buy a complete mid-drive ebike and be done with; no need to buy a hub-motor ebike and add another motor to it.

My other cargo ebike is also hub-motor, 750w with 1000w peak output.
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Riding in Brooklyn with close to 180 lb. of additional cargo + myself at 175 lb. I have no problem making it work to get up hills; but that's with pedal assist, not just throttle only action.
 
Converted the handlebars to give myself more reach & narrower overall width for better filtering through car mirrors in traffic.
I have about 85 miles on the first charge of the battery, still have 2 out of 5 bars on the battery.
The powerful motor on the Fiido T1 takes some getting used to. Even carrying near 50# of weight on the back, this ebike still gets going faster than most traffic in NYC from a red light.
I'm still looking for other options for seat & seatpost, the factory units are very heavy. Wide nose of the saddle gets in the way of pedaling.
That wooden plate on the rear rack may look nice, but it seems just extra weight, I ditched it soon after I started carrying stuff on the T1.

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Has anyone tested full throttle range at max speed?
I was on the fence on buying this for my 15 miles commute, to replace some of the miles I do with my car.
Then I broke my foot and will need to spare it for the next 6 weeks.

Would it be able to ride ~32 miles round trip with ~250 pounds (me + backpack + occasional groceries + locks), completely flat terrain,very little wind, on asphalt (shoulder of the road)?

I do have an option to charge at work, but I'd rather skip this step if possible.
 
Max/top speed only occur when the battery is fully charged at 100%, as charge capacity is reduced, the top speed you can achieve is lower.
In my commute, traffic flow doesn't allow safe operation at high speed.
I don't need the top speed of 25+ mph, I rarely get above 20 mph in traffic even.
That's just because there are that many cars on the road, and traffic lights are turning red every 1/4 to 1/2 mile.

The Fiido T1 has a big battery, likely it can easily cover 32 mile roundtrip of your commute,
but the more you depend on the throttle, the less range you would have.
 
Thanks!
What is the highest sustainable speed with lets say the highest assist level then?

Talking about good conditions, flat terrain, good asphalt road and no stop signs.


Being borderline obese (bmi 29) but plenty of strength, I find I don't have issues with sustained load, but I do with sweating. So until I get in shape in the longterm, I would require highest assist level and occasionally full throttle, at least until my foot heals.
 
I wouldn't know the highest sustained top speed with PAS, since I didn't purchase the Fiido T1 for its top speed performance.

I don't really have the safest environment to test it neither, during pandemic, I try not to take too much risk to get myself into ER.

I'd imagine with a decent physical condition, a rider can easily sustain 25-28 mph on the T1, is an easily obtainable speed, if traffic pattern allows.

Just remember, if you need to slow down in a hurry, the T1 only has mechanical disc brakes, not hydraulic.

If you're not used to operating 2-wheel vehicles at 28 mph, even if you can easily get to that speed, maneuvering and slowing to a safe stop are things that takes practice.
 
Thanks a lot for your guesstimate and safety advice!
I would surely not be going that fast unless conditions really are great. Which they are.

I have straight section kilometers long where I often don't encounter a single car or very few, because I have flexible hours and go somwhere in between 7 and 8am, inbetween rush hours. "Rush hours" is more figurative, because I live in a very sparely populated country area with low employment rate. Which is also double edged sword because that is why there are no bike lanes.

Any way, 25mph is plenty fast for me to make it reliably under 1h even in worst case scenario, which is perfectly acceptable compared to ~35 minutes it takes me with a car.
 
Has anyone tested full throttle range at max speed?
I was on the fence on buying this for my 15 miles commute, to replace some of the miles I do with my car.
Then I broke my foot and will need to spare it for the next 6 weeks.

Would it be able to ride ~32 miles round trip with ~250 pounds (me + backpack + occasional groceries + locks), completely flat terrain,very little wind, on asphalt (shoulder of the road)?

I do have an option to charge at work, but I'd rather skip this step if possible.
I have 500 miles on my T1 you should be fine even running top speed.

I have had no problems really have 500 miles on bike with 1 issue rear tire developed slow leak pulled tube no leak put together still leaked so I slimmed it. 3 weeks later front started loosing air slow pulled over to add air front valve stem ripped 3 miles from home. I have a feeling rear has same deal. Have ordered better ones with brass stems and replace rear as well. So a word of warning. Factory rubber is cheap not much tread on these tires.
 
I just bought the T1. Is there a way to disable the cruise control (not a fan)? Thanks in advance :)
 
Tap the brake lever, that stops the cruise control.
 
Hi There,

I am considering getting a T1, however I saw in a review that there isn't a quick connector plug from the motor. How does one change a tire/tube or replace the cassette?
 
Hi There,

I am considering getting a T1, however I saw in a review that there isn't a quick connector plug from the motor. How does one change a tire/tube or replace the cassette?
What I had to do was go into the junction box below the battery and unplug wires going to motor. There's more, there's a 6 wire connected plug. On mine the female side goes to motor and you can't pull it thru the hole. So I enlarged my hole. Don't know why factory assembler terminated the leads this way. T-1 is a great bike, just order the waterproof plug and change it out. Heavyload
 
Hi There,

I am considering getting a T1, however I saw in a review that there isn't a quick connector plug from the motor. How does one change a tire/tube or replace the cassette?

Rear freewheel isn't something that I change until it is worn-out or kaput.

For fixing flats, I flip the bike upside down and replace the tube without fully removing the rear wheel from the bike. It takes some practice.
 
What I had to do was go into the junction box below the battery and unplug wires going to motor. There's more, there's a 6 wire connected plug. On mine the female side goes to motor and you can't pull it thru the hole. So I enlarged my hole. Don't know why factory assembler terminated the leads this way. T-1 is a great bike, just order the waterproof plug and change it out. Heavyload
Thanks Heavyload!

May I ask how difficult connecting/soldering/crimping a 9pin(?) connector is/was to do? I was thinking this would be the best solution, but it would take quite a bit of time and soldering skills. Can you share pics of what you did?

I agree that the factory should have spent the extra $10 for a Connector Plug.

I am still on the fence about the T1 vs a used RadRunnerPlus. I had a RadRover for 3 years and the quality was very good. Sold the bike and used the funds to buy my kids 2 used ebikes for school. But now I regret not having a utility bike for Costco runs and being able to carry an extra passenger when needed, etc.
 
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