What
@HumanPerson said for is the cheap solution, unfortunately. This is sort of an old issue and it comes from Bafang.
You can forget about firmware I'm afraid. There's no fix for this other than a new controller or bleed off some voltage. I did a quick google and here's a discussion from back in 2019 on the subject, which is about when Bafang sprang this pesky issue on the world.
Ok lets try this... Luna customers.... Do you have a fast question that is not specific to your order? Need a quick technical question answered? Please help us out by posting the question here instead of bogging down our email and phone support and we will do our best to speed answer your...
electricbike.com
Short version is you are screwed on 52v with this motor controller.
Late last year I bought a BBSHD from California Ebike (a vendor I still regard pretty highly despite their ownership change). I bought the 52v motor version. The way Cali Ebike fixes the 52v Bafang lockout is to flash the motor to allow a 14S pack, but to also limit the motor to 28a vs. the default of 30a. Trying to up the limit to 30a is refused by the motor's installed firmware. I prefer Luna motors since I like 52v and 30a to play together without any BS. The 28a limit is there to protect the HD's internals, which I have never found to be necessary, although I am sure there are people who find ways to break things and the 28a solution minimizes warranty and tech support.
As an aside, you asked how to lower the voltage of a battery. There are a few ways to do this and they all involve putting a load of some kind onto the system. I'll share the most successful one I have found:
6.8 Ohm 400 Watt Load for Battery Discharge Testing.
ebikes.ca
To use it right, connect this device to the battery's output cable, which may already be the Anderson plugs found on the load resistor. To use it wrong like I do, plug it into the charge port and be damn sure you monitor it and disconnect at a safe lower level because you are bypassing the BMS' low voltage cutoff protection.
If you're not familiar with this device, what it does is suck electrical power directly from the battery. The device is essentially a heat sink, and the little SOB will get HOT... like 500 degrees fahrenheit hot after a few minutes, where it will stay until you unplug it. I set mine on a brick as if I put it directly on the garage floor it will scorch it. On a 52v pack it will deliver a continuous draw of, if I remember correctly, 7.5 amps. Thats equivalent to middling steady pedal assist so it won't hurt the battery to hook it up for the few minutes you will need to draw down a volt off the pack (I have two of these and can connect in parallel for a 15a load... don't get the bright idea to try that; its too much load imho).
You can also do yourself a big, fat favor and implement a limited charge regimen that only goes to 80 or 90%, with occasional monthly 100% balance charges drawn down by a device like this. You'll live with your existing hardware and help preserve battery life, pain-free. Here is the cheap way to get an adjustable, safe and reliable charger. there's a link there to a complete step by step how-to in the intro below that explains everything.
How about a charger – quickly adjustable for voltage and current – that is rated for hundreds of thousands of hours of use before it typically fails?
talesontwowheels.com