Eggrider V2 or solder shunt?

Dougn2deep

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I've got a 2020 Juiced Rip Current S with the 19.3ah battery and want to see what kind of power it's capable of. I don't mind paying the $99 for an Eggrider 2 but was curious if it'll give me the same power advantage as soldering the limiter?

I'm in the mountains and never see anyone riding so not too worried about not meeting restrictions.
 
I've got a 2020 Juiced Rip Current S with the 19.3ah battery and want to see what kind of power it's capable of. I don't mind paying the $99 for an Eggrider 2 but was curious if it'll give me the same power advantage as soldering the limiter?

I'm in the mountains and never see anyone riding so not too worried about not meeting restrictions.

The shunt mod will not be good once you start pumping crazy power through it into the other components...but it does work for people.
Just beware that it prolly won't work for too long before the controller or something in the motor burns up.

The eggrider.....

I have one on a BBSHD build and you can get pretty deep into the settings....so be CAREFUL.

They, in my own opinion are good for setting up a really great cadence system through settings.

@m@Robertson would know better about this :)
 
The shunt mod will not be good once you start pumping crazy power through it into the other components...but it does work for people.
Just beware that it prolly won't work for too long before the controller or something in the motor burns up.

The eggrider.....

I have one on a BBSHD build and you can get pretty deep into the settings....so be CAREFUL.

They, in my own opinion are good for setting up a really great cadence system through settings.

@m@Robertson would know better about this :)
Thank you!

If I'm running a 750 watt Bafang hub drive with a 52v 19ah battery are there guidelines to stay within? Say I'm going for 30-60 min 3-5 mile rides and weigh around 250lbs. Maybe keep at 35 amps or below and monitor with a temp gun or install a temp sensor?
 
Wit the eggrider they say the cutoff is 60v so a 52v battery (58.8v full charge) should be just fine.
You can later get a bigger battery in the AH area...such as a 52v 35ah battery, giving you extended saddle time.

Honestly I'd set the current for 25amps thengo through your PAS settings and the max speed road and max speed offroad.

So, in honesty i'd go for the eggrider.
 
Much appreciate! I tried doing some searches to see if the Eggrider is compatible with the Juiced RCS S and can't find anything, are they pretty universal?
 
The eggrider seems to be used on quite a few different brands.
I'd head over to their facebook page to ask if they do the juiced rip current s just to be sure :)


Hope that helps :)
 
I have one on a BBSHD build and you can get pretty deep into the settings....so be CAREFUL.

They, in my own opinion are good for setting up a really great cadence system through settings.
Absolutely on both counts. I used to take pics of my settings before I touched anything. And what you can do to cadence on a BBSxx totally changes the character of the motor.
@m@Robertson would know better about this :)

ehhh maybe not :D. I left the EggRider behind years ago. I have one for a bike with a Cyc X1 Pro and experienced issues with it needing to phone home/log in to the ER site after I had a settings issue. I am not fond of something that could brick my bike thanks to an external connectivity issue. For my most recent build a few months back I looked into giving the ER another chance. After going to their FB group, in short order I saw the same nasty config problems reported here and there like they were a couple years ago. Too much risk for my taste.

I do my BBSxx programming with a standalone Luna Black Box, which is a very pricey solution unless you have a bunch of bikes to use it on over time. The programming cable and a laptop is what most people use although those cables can be problematic in terms of the PC recognizing them sometimes.
 
Absolutely on both counts. I used to take pics of my settings before I touched anything. And what you can do to cadence on a BBSxx totally changes the character of the motor.


ehhh maybe not :D. I left the EggRider behind years ago. I have one for a bike with a Cyc X1 Pro and experienced issues with it needing to phone home/log in to the ER site after I had a settings issue. I am not fond of something that could brick my bike thanks to an external connectivity issue. For my most recent build a few months back I looked into giving the ER another chance. After going to their FB group, in short order I saw the same nasty config problems reported here and there like they were a couple years ago. Too much risk for my taste.

I do my BBSxx programming with a standalone Luna Black Box, which is a very pricey solution unless you have a bunch of bikes to use it on over time. The programming cable and a laptop is what most people use although those cables can be problematic in terms of the PC recognizing them sometimes.
I must have gotten lucky or am really blessed. I've never had any of the problems with the eggrider that i see ALOT on the facebook page,
so i suppose i am a bit biased for now.

OH!! Where can i get the Luna Black Box? I've been like a red tailed hawk on their page and it's always sold out then i heard from
someone that it was gonna be discontinued.

That would be better than the eggrider in my opinion.
 
I've got a 2020 Juiced Rip Current S with the 19.3ah battery and want to see what kind of power it's capable of. I don't mind paying the $99 for an Eggrider 2 but was curious if it'll give me the same power advantage as soldering the limiter?

I'm in the mountains and never see anyone riding so not too worried about not meeting restrictions.
I just installed an eggrider on my bakcou mule and it is worth every penny. I had a bike that was too hard to pedal for my bad knees and I was just ready to sell it. I put the eggrider on, adjusted the torque sensor parameters and now Its perfect. I can now even ghost pedal like a cadence bike
 
OH!! Where can i get the Luna Black Box? I've been like a red tailed hawk on their page and it's always sold out then i heard from
someone that it was gonna be discontinued.
I bought mine in the very first production run. Back when it was 'only' $100. It is still in the BBSHD Parts section of their web site, and hasn't been moved into the Archived area, so at least it appears to be available again someday. If I were you, I would go to the Luna forum and ask in the product availability thread. You should get a truthful answer, they have been very good about that for me. I did see it come back available for a very short amount of time a few months back, but it was very short and then boom it was out of stock again.

If you're a repeat customer, you may get some latitude as well. I was given the opportunity to buy something standalone from them that is no longer available for individual sale - its only sold with kits. But because I've been buying product from them consistently over the years they made an exception for me. Not saying this to indicate I am special but to note you may get some progress via a DM with the rep who answers your question in the public forum.
 
I have a question for you Eggrider users - is there a way to correct the odometer reading - permanently, not by using the offset field in Advance settings? According to the manual, the Wheel diameter setting corrects the speed. There is no mention of fixing the odometer reading. I’ve done several test runs changing the wheel diameter setting and the odometer reading shows less miles than my gps apps. Doesnt matter what I set the wheel size. I’ve gone from 2030 to 2075, in increments. Thus far, the odometer reading remains identical in my route, 7.5 miles; my gps apps both show 7.9 miles.
 
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