Ecells 5 STAR owners....

Have you tried their FB groups?

Owner of the business recently got assaulted, response may not be as quickly.
Really? More info or a link please
m@Robertson, since you are obviously very experienced with Ebikes, I was hoping I could switch topics for a second. I have a Carbon Yeti MTB that I have had for years. One of my biggest "upgrades" that I did was go tubeless. Even on a 24lb bike it made a huge difference, I am guessing with such a massive tube on an Ebike it would noticeably improve performance and mileage. Have you done this, or thought about doing this, or do you have any information from anyone who has? Thx again for the great information.
What I have heard from one battery manufacturer is that bluetooth BMS' create - by necessity - a tiny parasitic drain on the pack, and if you leave the pack to sit for an extended period (say, over the winter) that drain can kill the battery. For that reason that (small volume, premium pack) manufacturer wouldn't use them. This was not Bicycle Motorworks, who you see me recommending all the time, although BMW never had a Bluetooth bms available as an option for the stuff they did for me.

This parasitic drain business is why I won't have a bluetooth BMS. YMMV of course.
I hear ya, however, you do realize that without Bluetooth on the BMS the battery pack does discharge slightly all by itself. Over the winter time storage you should be checking the voltage at the terminals on the battery pack at least every month and maybe charging it a bit.
...without Bluetooth on the PMS the battery pack does discharge slightly all by itself. Over the winter time storage you should be checking the voltage at the terminals on the battery pack at least every month and maybe charging it a bit.
Well, on paper I would say yes I agree. However in practice I haven't found this to be universally true. Not at all true with all of the packs I have, which come from Luna, Bicycle Motor Works, Hi-C Battery, Sondors and Electrobikeworld. Now, with that said, I NEVER let a battery sit in a bike, where God only knows what in the surrounding ebike ecosystem could put a tiny drain on the pack. Wait... I said never in all caps but I forgot I also have two huge batteries built in permanently to my two Bullitts, and both of them also do not lose charge over time. In particular my Lizzard King Bullitt sits for months on end down in Fresno since I no longer live there.

I've got two Luna Mighty Minis that I have left parallel'd - and sitting in a cool-ish indoor storage location - that have been sitting at around 52v for literally a couple of years. When I had a Sondors 36v Bullet (not Bullitt) battery as part of my 2015 fattie, I replaced it on Day 1 with a 52v pack, and when I checked it every few months, I found it to be holding its voltage. Same goes for two BMW packs I have sitting behind me here in the office. They were parallel'd together on my 2Fat awd bike, which I upgraded to two 16ah packs a couple of years ago. The packs are kept separate, and in the middle of typing this post I thought hey I haven't checked them in quite awhile, and so I just did that. Both separated packs register smack on at 54.6v. A little high for long term storage. I need to take my discharger to them and bring each down to around 60%.

Also my daughter and son-in-law just came back home for their annual summer return (she works in the Middle East in a desert country and nobody wants to spend a summer there unless they must). Because of an unfortunate death in the family, the monthly-checks I taught them to do were not performed for the full year on their 48v in-bike Sondors factory batteries. Both were fine.

With all of that said, as a moderator on the Sondors user group I have seen countless posts of people who left batteries unplugged for months, came back to them and found them to be dead. So I know it can happen. But something causes it - some external factor, or something in the construction of the pack like maybe the BMS. Just the battery sitting alone is not enough to make it happen. What exactly... I have no idea. I still check packs but not religiously given the above, which has made me a little lazy.
m@Robertson, since you are obviously very experienced with Ebikes, I was hoping I could switch topics for a second. I have a Carbon Yeti MTB that I have had for years. One of my biggest "upgrades" that I did was go tubeless.
I have several ebikes that are tubeless. Worth noting: Tubeless is not ideal for a daily driver cargo bike where the kinds of risks you face are not pinhole punctures, which tubeless sealant excels at (i.e. thorns). Roll over a broken neck of a whiskey bottle for instance and tubeless is, if anything, much more difficult to repair than a tube. Same goes for a jagged steel strip (both of these are things I have dealt with for reals). So for my cargo bikes I am running a Schwalbe Marathon Plus belted/flatless tire, under that a thick thorn-resistant (and oversized) tube, inside of that Flatout sealant and also a little air in the leftover space :)

This bike is tubeless. 90mm and 5.05" tires in this picture. Before this I ran 4.7" tires also tubeless. Its been tubeless for at least two years and possibly three.


Tubeless with Flatout as the sealant on this bike was able to recover from a 6-nail strip that ALL went into the tire near-ish to the sidewall. I had to use my bike-battery-powered compressor to refill the tire three times, but after the third refill the sealant fully sealed and I kept that horrifically-punctured tire in service until I wore it out a year or so later.

These two are both tubeless. Same deal: Flatout as the tubeless sealant.


This pavement commuter is tubeless in this picture, but it didn't take. I ended up going back to tubes after trying it for a few months. A bike like this, I could get a rear wheel flat, could lay it on its side, unseat one tire bead, find a hole, patch it and get the bead seated/tire pumped back up in literally about 10 minutes. The talk you hear about tubeless ending flat repair isn't true for an urban environment, unfortunately.


Even on a 24lb bike it made a huge difference, I am guessing with such a massive tube on an Ebike it would noticeably improve performance and mileage.
I haven't seen any real change in performance, either on the street or on singletrack. Given the whole lesser-unsprung-weight thing I know its better from that standpoint, but I think the motor is such an equalizer that it wipes away any perception of benefit. I'm sure a benefit is there but it doesn't feel like it.
Here is one. Sort of my standard-issue setup on a KT hub motor, of which I have several.

This link is tee'd up to jump straight to the fromt motor section of this article, which lists them out.

I see is some of your settings are in single digits, where the KT manual (all of them not just the one I linked) use 2-digit values on some settings. So your C1 is 7 but the manual reads '07'. It may be nothing but I thought it worth mentioning.

  1. Don't screw with the P1 setting. That is motor-specific.
  2. P2 is also motor-specific and if you don't know how many magnets are inside the motor casing, leave this alone.
  3. If you read the Dillenger native-english manual I linked you to in the other thread, my P3 setting will be easily understood.
  4. P4 same as 3 above.
  5. P5 is the one you can just play with. I would jump it way up to say 20 so you have a clear indication of what an increase will do to the graphic's bars over the course of a charge. Then with that revised baseline established decide to increment up or down from there.
  6. C1 is hardware dependent. However if you have working PAS and its set to 07, that means you can try 06 and 05 to select a higher sensitivity (speed of engagement) level. 07, 06 and 05 imply a reverse PAS signal (sensor mounted on the non drive side) but I have seen bikes that reverse this for absolutely no reason. Remember... worst case you can try all of them and just see what happens. Nothing will break. But 05, 06 and 07 are the most likely to have a positive impact.
  7. C2 - don't change this unless you know what you are doing. I always have left mine at zero. I have a new 30a KT controller coming for one of my 500w hubs (the one in the linked article in fact) and I will be playing with this a little during the upgrade, but the advice I have been given is with my Bafang hub leave it at the default.
  8. I set my C3 to 1. I want it to always be set for at least minimal assist and I don't want it to remember what it was set for last time (C3=0).
  9. I believe my C4=3 setting does effectively the same as yours does since I have P4=0.
  10. C5 - you want to change this one to stop the bike from jumping so hard off the line, which will also give you just a tiny bit more range.
  11. C7 will enable the cruise control function @addertooth is talking about if thats your thing.
  12. Ignore C8 you don't have a motor temp sensor.
  13. Stay away from C9 unless you want to potentially lock yourself out of your ebike. More seriously, if you want to plug in a password you do it here, but I have fielded many help requests as an admin on an ebike group largely populated with beginners who have screwed up either in the PIN code setting process or in its entry and they have a bricked bike as a result.
  14. I should play with C11 to see if it does anything on my new controller, but I doubt it will.
  15. Your C12 setting should be left alone. You have a special variant of the FT-LCD8 that is 60v-capable. The fixed value of the Low Voltage Cutoff that comes from this setting is unknown, but I am certain it is not what is in the standard manual. Myself personally I have increased my LVC because its better for battery longevity. Buyt thats a personal decision.
  16. Ignore C13
  17. C14 changes the increment in between PAS levels. If you increase it like I have done, you get a bigger jump up in current between PAS levels, which means PAS5 is a little more powerful than it otherwise would be (jump up is noticeable but not hugely so). I like this, but you may not. You are at the default.
  18. C15 is undocumented on the manual I linked you to, but it is the speed of the walk function. It varies the walk speed from 4-6 km/h and on the displays I have that support it (only my LCD4's have it) ... it does nothing. Range of values are 4, 5 and 6. I am guessing 0 is disabled. If you have no walk function on the display, try and set this to something as it can occasionally (rarely) be handy.
Actually the five star does have a motor temp sensor and I have it turned on on my recent 2024 version.
Thats great news. Glad you got some positive results! This link will jump you to a readout of all of my settings. Same link I gave in Post 6. It should link to the page and jump down to the Front Motor Settings subhead.

@Hoggdoc gave you a link to a native-English version of that manual (its at the E-cells support site). I know the Engrish/Chinglish translations of KT manuals that the factory puts out are REALLY difficult to follow. I had the benefit of a very large user group who all had KT displays and controllers so a whole lot of people were able to contribute to figuring them out, some years ago.

Probably a good idea to post up what your setting was to get the battery squared away for others to refer to down the road. Sounds like its a common issue.
Is that KT group still in existence? If so, can you share a link?
Is that KT group still in existence? If so, can you share a link?
Strictly speaking yes it exists. Practically speaking no it does not. The group on Facebook is the Sondors Storm Owners Group, where I am still one of the admins. In the early years of that group, all of the Sondors ebike models used KT controllers. Also the group was populated by thousands of people who disproportionately liked to do DIY mods to them (which eventually spawned the factory-hot-rod XS model line that, at the time, were head/shoulders above their peers)- thats how, on Day 1 of my (very first) bike's delivery in 2015, I was able to plug in a higher-amp controller and a 52v battery in place of the 12a/36v system that came from the factory.

A few years ago the factory stopped using KT controllers, so what was once a group populated with tons of people using and tinkering with them ... that expertise slowly died out. Only a few admins and moderators still have any useful knowledge. If you want to join that group DM me and I'll make sure your request goes thru.
My bad. Every KT controller I mate up to a hub uses a Bafang and those don't have sensors.
Yep this one has supposedly a much better motor. I do know the planetary gears in the motor are a combination of metal and nylon, which should have them last a lot longer. The motor is rated @1500w but with the 40 amp controller can pull close to 3000 watts.