Anyone have one of these ebikes? I need a pic of the C and P settings in the advanced setup. I have tried several times to get this information from the vendor, I got a picture sent to me that shows some settings, but half of the settings don't work. I have no idea if I have a bad controller, motor or what. Thx for the help.
Ecells 5 STAR owners....
- Thread starter wntrhwk68
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m@Robertson
Well-known member
I think I got you what you need in the other thread you are posting in. Not ecells-specific but it gives you a complete written and video description of the settings in your display, which in turn on the KT controller you have provides all of the settings available in the controller.
I would like to take a look at what you have. I have heard that Ecells has a specific setup that they use, but I guess I could expriment with the settings. I just don't want to blow anything up with a setting that the motor or controller cant handle and just shuts it down.
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Have you tried their FB groups?
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m@Robertson
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Here is one. Sort of my standard-issue setup on a KT hub motor, of which I have several.
This link is tee'd up to jump straight to the fromt motor section of this article, which lists them out.
Larry vs Harry Bullitt Hill Hauler, Back-to-Front Part 4
Lets end this story by covering the contents of the hidden boxes, the front wheel, the front motor, and finish off a few leftovers.
talesontwowheels.com
I see is some of your settings are in single digits, where the KT manual (all of them not just the one I linked) use 2-digit values on some settings. So your C1 is 7 but the manual reads '07'. It may be nothing but I thought it worth mentioning.
- Don't screw with the P1 setting. That is motor-specific.
- P2 is also motor-specific and if you don't know how many magnets are inside the motor casing, leave this alone.
- If you read the Dillenger native-english manual I linked you to in the other thread, my P3 setting will be easily understood.
- P4 same as 3 above.
- P5 is the one you can just play with. I would jump it way up to say 20 so you have a clear indication of what an increase will do to the graphic's bars over the course of a charge. Then with that revised baseline established decide to increment up or down from there.
- C1 is hardware dependent. However if you have working PAS and its set to 07, that means you can try 06 and 05 to select a higher sensitivity (speed of engagement) level. 07, 06 and 05 imply a reverse PAS signal (sensor mounted on the non drive side) but I have seen bikes that reverse this for absolutely no reason. Remember... worst case you can try all of them and just see what happens. Nothing will break. But 05, 06 and 07 are the most likely to have a positive impact.
- C2 - don't change this unless you know what you are doing. I always have left mine at zero. I have a new 30a KT controller coming for one of my 500w hubs (the one in the linked article in fact) and I will be playing with this a little during the upgrade, but the advice I have been given is with my Bafang hub leave it at the default.
- I set my C3 to 1. I want it to always be set for at least minimal assist and I don't want it to remember what it was set for last time (C3=0).
- I believe my C4=3 setting does effectively the same as yours does since I have P4=0.
- C5 - you want to change this one to stop the bike from jumping so hard off the line, which will also give you just a tiny bit more range.
- C7 will enable the cruise control function @addertooth is talking about if thats your thing.
- Ignore C8 you don't have a motor temp sensor.
- Stay away from C9 unless you want to potentially lock yourself out of your ebike. More seriously, if you want to plug in a password you do it here, but I have fielded many help requests as an admin on an ebike group largely populated with beginners who have screwed up either in the PIN code setting process or in its entry and they have a bricked bike as a result.
- I should play with C11 to see if it does anything on my new controller, but I doubt it will.
- Your C12 setting should be left alone. You have a special variant of the FT-LCD8 that is 60v-capable. The fixed value of the Low Voltage Cutoff that comes from this setting is unknown, but I am certain it is not what is in the standard manual. Myself personally I have increased my LVC because its better for battery longevity. Buyt thats a personal decision.
- Ignore C13
- C14 changes the increment in between PAS levels. If you increase it like I have done, you get a bigger jump up in current between PAS levels, which means PAS5 is a little more powerful than it otherwise would be (jump up is noticeable but not hugely so). I like this, but you may not. You are at the default.
- C15 is undocumented on the manual I linked you to, but it is the speed of the walk function. It varies the walk speed from 4-6 km/h and on the displays I have that support it (only my LCD4's have it) ... it does nothing. Range of values are 4, 5 and 6. I am guessing 0 is disabled. If you have no walk function on the display, try and set this to something as it can occasionally (rarely) be handy.
Wow, incredible, this is what I need. I assume you either work in the Ebike field, are a gifted savant or are Nicola Tesla reincarnated. You sir are a scholar and a gentleman for taking so much of your time to help. I hope you have a great day.
m@Robertson
Well-known member
Not quite
I have been building bikes for many years and applied myself to ebikes in the last several. Those articles I am linking you to are my own web site and if you hit the Table of Contents you can see I have been around the block a few times.I am actually in the process of writing up a series on various ebike displays so a lot of what you are seeing I already have laid down for the KT portion (LCD3, 4 and 8H).
If you go to eCells site they have manuals posted there. You need the manual for the KT display it explains all the settings.
One of the features that I cannot seem to figure is getting the throttle to work without having to set the PAS to 1 or more. I know it is P3 and/or P4 but no matter what I put in I cannot get the throttle to work by itself.
Hoggdoc, the manual does show what each selection does but it seems pretty generic, it just gives ranges for each setting, it does not say set this number for C5, etc. I noticed you have a 5 STAR, can you send a screenshot of your settings?
m@Robertson
Well-known member
I am definitely going to grab a copy of that. Its the first one of these KT manuals since the Dillenger - which is many years old - that I have seen that was written up by a native English speaker. And it appears to have come directly from KT and was not rewritten by a reseller. It also has all of the modern settings documented like the low C5 values, C15 etc.
If you set C3 to 1, PAS will always be at least 1 when you power up the bike and this issue disappears. However what you are describing is, IIRC, associated with the zero-startup handlebar setting (a combination of C4 and P4). I'm running off to Home Depot shortly and I will check to see if my throttle works if I set PAS down to zero on purpose (which I never do). If so you can use my settings as a guide to make that issue go away.
Interesting I didn't think that was possible. It was my understanding that you had to have at least level one pedal assist to get any motor operation. I have set my settings to make sure that when I turn the bike on it always starts in zero pedal assist, so there's no chance of bumping the pedals or the throttle and having to bike leap into action.
Ok they are, P1 = 80 P2 = 6. I didn't change these from factory settings.
Nope, factory setting on my C 15 is six.
Interesting, I was sent a screenshot by the vendor, shows C15 at 0. I cant even select 0, this is why I didn't trust most of the settings, especially after getting the wrong display with the bike and waiting nearly a month for the proper replacement. Appreciate your help.
m@Robertson
Well-known member
I confirmed it on my ride yesterday: My throttle works with PAS set to zero. Try the related settings I have in the link in Post #6 and see. As noted, I am pretty sure this is the zero startup handlebar feature and 'zero startup' in KT-speak means the bike will engage throttle without pedal assist actuation enabling it.
I have a few other bikes with KT controllers but none in daily use. This particular one is a 25a controller tied to a 500w Bafang motor, and the controller is on a bike I built in January 2023 with a new-purchase controller. I originally used it with an LCD3, but now have an LCD4 on it since I much prefer its compact size once I discovered it existed a few months ago.
I've got other bikes with the 35a controllers that work with the bigfoot 750w G060's. I am positive those work like this as well but none of the bikes are in front of me to do a test at least for another couple of days.
I too see the range is 4, 5 and 6 (which matches the km/h C15 is supposed to set for the walking throttle).
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