Ebikeling Brake lever cutout switches

Lowandslow1

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Brand new to ebikes. We have a 1993 Miyata tandem. Great bike. Shimano Deore all around. Was designed as a mountain bike tandem. Decided to put an ebike kit on it as my knees can act up now and then. It's an Ebikeling 1500W rear wheel drive. The build has been pretty straight forward. The wheel went on without a hitch and the torque arms bolted right to the panner eyes. With the motor and battery it is quite heavy. It was already a heavy bike, but now it's a porker.

The dilemma is my shifters and brakes levers are one unit. The Shimano group still shifts flawlessly so I don't want to replace the levers and shifters to install the brake cutout levers. I looked at trying to rig something up, but so far I haven't been able to find a solution. So, how critical is that system to the functionality and/or safety to the system as a whole? I have all the controls installed, minus the brake cutouts.

My primary use for the motor will be pedal assist. We have a couple of long hill climbs where we would like some assistance. I have no idea how the system works, but I don't want to be trying to brake with the motor still driving.

Thanks.
 

Frogslayer

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Feb 20, 2021
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Myself, I'd leave the brakes and shifters how they are. Motor cutoffs aren't even a safety issue as 1500 watts is so weak, even at wide open throttle your brakes will stop the motor. I only use twist throttle though, no cadence sensor or torque sensor.
 

Hoggdoc

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Brand new to ebikes. We have a 1993 Miyata tandem. Great bike. Shimano Deore all around. Was designed as a mountain bike tandem. Decided to put an ebike kit on it as my knees can act up now and then. It's an Ebikeling 1500W rear wheel drive. The build has been pretty straight forward. The wheel went on without a hitch and the torque arms bolted right to the panner eyes. With the motor and battery it is quite heavy. It was already a heavy bike, but now it's a porker.

The dilemma is my shifters and brakes levers are one unit. The Shimano group still shifts flawlessly so I don't want to replace the levers and shifters to install the brake cutout levers. I looked at trying to rig something up, but so far I haven't been able to find a solution. So, how critical is that system to the functionality and/or safety to the system as a whole? I have all the controls installed, minus the brake cutouts.

My primary use for the motor will be pedal assist. We have a couple of long hill climbs where we would like some assistance. I have no idea how the system works, but I don't want to be trying to brake with the motor still driving.

Thanks.
There are a number of sellers on Amazon that sell cut-off switches that mount on the brake levers. You will need to be sure the connectors match the connectors on you controller.
 
Last edited:

Winded

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Mar 28, 2021
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Brand new to ebikes. We have a 1993 Miyata tandem. Great bike. Shimano Deore all around. Was designed as a mountain bike tandem. Decided to put an ebike kit on it as my knees can act up now and then. It's an Ebikeling 1500W rear wheel drive. The build has been pretty straight forward. The wheel went on without a hitch and the torque arms bolted right to the panner eyes. With the motor and battery it is quite heavy. It was already a heavy bike, but now it's a porker.

The dilemma is my shifters and brakes levers are one unit. The Shimano group still shifts flawlessly so I don't want to replace the levers and shifters to install the brake cutout levers. I looked at trying to rig something up, but so far I haven't been able to find a solution. So, how critical is that system to the functionality and/or safety to the system as a whole? I have all the controls installed, minus the brake cutouts.

My primary use for the motor will be pedal assist. We have a couple of long hill climbs where we would like some assistance. I have no idea how the system works, but I don't want to be trying to brake with the motor still driving.

Thanks.
I am just completing a build with an ebikeling 1500w front hub, waterproof cables, Peddle Assist (PAS), twist throttle and a 48v 20Ah battery on an old Haro (circa 1990's) mountain bike with the integrated shifter/brakes. So I had a similar problem. I purchased a magnetic setup --eBike 2 pin Brake Sensor for Hydraulic & Mechanical brakes Julet Type Connector-- from www.elecbikeparts.com
open
. Basically, it is a sensor and a magnet set up that uses adhesive to attach the sensor and magnet to the current brake levers. The sensors are working fine so far. There are sites online that show a number of ways of rigging a motor cutoff on brake levers.
I live in the mountains and on a road with an 11% and 13% grade and my 1500w motor does great with my 30A controller. Using the PAS I can go up the slopes with no problem and quite rapidly.
I feel much better and safer with the brake cutoff because you can find yourself in a position where you are entering a turn or hit gravel, pine needles etc. and even if you stop pedaling the motor, when engaged using the PAS, is still engaged for a brief time. I prefer to be able to cut the power immediately. Just coming to a straight stop on good pavement without the brake sensor is not much of an issue as the motor will cutoff quickly enough and the bike will remain controllable.
Once everything is installed and the controller/display are set up to your liking the bike is quite nice to ride.
 

Winded

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Mar 28, 2021
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I am just completing a build with an ebikeling 1500w front hub, waterproof cables, Peddle Assist (PAS), twist throttle and a 48v 20Ah battery on an old Haro (circa 1990's) mountain bike with the integrated shifter/brakes. So I had a similar problem. I purchased a magnetic setup --eBike 2 pin Brake Sensor for Hydraulic & Mechanical brakes Julet Type Connector-- from www.elecbikeparts.com
open
. Basically, it is a sensor and a magnet set up that uses adhesive to attach the sensor and magnet to the current brake levers. The sensors are working fine so far. There are sites online that show a number of ways of rigging a motor cutoff on brake levers.
I live in the mountains and on a road with an 11% and 13% grade and my 1500w motor does great with my 30A controller. Using the PAS I can go up the slopes with no problem and quite rapidly.
I feel much better and safer with the brake cutoff because you can find yourself in a position where you are entering a turn or hit gravel, pine needles etc. and even if you stop pedaling the motor, when engaged using the PAS, is still engaged for a brief time. I prefer to be able to cut the power immediately. Just coming to a straight stop on good pavement without the brake sensor is not much of an issue as the motor will cutoff quickly enough and the bike will remain controllable.
Once everything is installed and the controller/display are set up to your liking the bike is quite nice to ride.
Sorry, meant to say I have a 1200w hub motor.
 
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