E-Tube, should I even try it or could it brick my ebike?

pufferjumper

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I started to download the Shimano E-Tube app, then I read the reviews. They are horrible. Multiple references to bricked bikes. Does anyone have any recommendations?
 
I have only good things to say about the Shimano E-Tube app paired with my Shimano 8000 motor.

The latest firmware update was a big improvement. Connectivity is a snap. App is intuitive and makes it easy to adjust assist levels.

Zero complaints here.
 
If you consider "latest firmware update" September 2019...I'm surprised how infrequently Shimano updates their firmware. It sure isn't because they "got it right the first time"...

Three big issues remain for all of the Shimano eMTB drive systems, including the E8000 (which oddly enough did not get a firmware update to support the new larger capacity batteries) that can EASILY be addressed with software/app updates:

1) Requirement to have a dealer make changes to wheel circumference - I run different sizes wheels and tires throughout the year (my bike can run 29er and 27.5 plus, and I run different sized 27.5 plus tires seasonally)

2) Power tapers off steeply at 18.5 MPH, unlike most other eMTB drive systems. This is the achilles heel of the Shimano system, and again, easily addressed with a firmware/software update

3) Remaining battery indication is inconsistent between the battery (the five LEDs) and the display unit. They often do not match up. And the time lag between a low battery warning and shutdown is inconsistent and sometimes nearly non-existent.

Other quirks are inconsistencies in the data available via Bluetooth and/or ANT+ private from the various display units. Also the above mentioned lack of an update for the new batteries and the DU5000 display.

So in short, I do have plenty of complaints about Shimano and their software/firmware.

Thankfully, bricking the system isn't one of them....
 
I bought my bike April 2020. First time I linked, I was told to update firmware. So I don't know when the actual update was released. But the changes it made to Trail mode were easily appreciable.

I have zero problems showing data on my Garmin 830.

None of your gripes really addresses the OP's question, however
 
Yup. It definitely helped, as did the app update which allowed more granular control over assistance settings. But there remain significant issues.

Also, in regarding to Garmin integration, it is very inconsistent across the various display units (E7000 and E8000 for example).
 
can you really tell the difference when switching rear tires?

I've gone from 27.5 "plus" 2.6 and 2.8 (which are same effective circumference as 29) to 27.5 "standard" 2.6 and 2.5 tires. I really haven't noticed any changes affecting the motor or power response
 
Affects assist cutout point, not actual power/boost (I guess indirectly it sorta does). The difference can be substantial, actually. Range of 3-7% depending on tires. So a full MPH difference on average (5% difference).

I'm payin' for 20 MPH top end, I want 20, not 18.5 and certainly not 18. ;-) Where I really noticed this was in an eMTB race - those on non-Shimano systems had a 1-2 MPH advantage in the open sections and though I pedaled my ass off (HR was 156 average for the race!) I still was at a disadvantage.

Not super noticeable on everyday rides, but I did notice the cutoff on places like transfer stages or section of doubletrack/road.

Either way, it should not require a visit to the dealer and the cost/inconvenience. For that I reason, I bought a STunlocker license so I can set it myself. And every time I use it, I do worry about bricking my drive unit!
 
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