e-bike purchasing advice - 1000watt middrive < 3” tires

bpmcallorum

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I am looking for the closest thing to an undercover e-scooter available; meaning you don’t really have to pedal at all.

1000 watt mid-drive motor. No limiters.

Twist throttle. Strong battery.

I can’t really see why I would not put a Bafang 1000 watt motor kit on a commuter bike and hide the battery in a back rack bag???

Bafang’s 1000 watt kit is $1k and a used commuter bike is $500-1k. I’m assuming other people don’t go that route because they are not mechanically inclined??? $1,500-2k tops.

The price difference between adding a motor to a used bike and buying a new pre-built 1000 watt bike is like $1-4k of “magical markup”.

That said….

I’m currently looking at the $3k Dost Drop Chain. That’s the best I’ve found so far. They say they ship in a week or so! You can set it to a Class 3 mode so there is no speed limiting.

Downsides are….the Dost only has a 750 watt motor….it has a lever throttle instead of twist, and it looks like what a thief would steal. I’ve had 2 much less attractive bikes stolen already. That aside, it seems like it would be a good bike for me.

The Biktrix Juggernaut is interesting to me at $4k. It looks like it would attract both police and thieves alike though. I don’t like the big tires.

Maybe the Magnum Scout? Other Magnums?

I’ve looked at bikes like the Frey which has great specs but is extremely hard to get.

I used to think the Sondors LX was what I wanted until I found out they limit the speed electronically.

Wattwagon looks great but really pricey. $7k.

Same with the FLX Blade 2.0. $7

I find the fat tire thing annoying. 4” tires on every bike with a 1000 watt motor is ridiculous. It’s like putting up a sign that says you have a big motor for police and thieves.

I’m well aware of the laws and regulations..thank you.

In terms of buying a bike that visually looks “similar” to a “normal” commuter bike…but with a 1000 watt mid drive motor. What do you recommend? Under $4000.
 

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If you were to hold both torque arms in your hand, which I have, there is ABSOLUTELY NO QUESTION which item is better built and designed to help keep your wheel from falling off.

How close to you typically get to autos going at high rates of speed, and how much desire do you have to be on a crashing ebike careening out of control into the path of those vehicles?

Still aiming for 30 mph? GET THE GOOD ONES. OK with 20mph? SAME FRIGGING ANSWER.

Pretty much anything at or over 1000W.

Do you need two? Well, it depends on how much you want to keep all your arms and legs at their current level of functionality, and how much you enjoy facial reconstruction surgery. This is some of the cheapest insurance you will ever buy.

I have snapped off a rear dropout under pedal power alone. As for front dropouts, I used to own a Lambert. Google "death-fork bike".

And btw, I wasn’t asking which torque arm is better so much as I was asking if they are necessary on a carbon-steel frame.
 
Thank you Nelson. Yer a bit intense but I appreciate your help.

I’ve owned and rode several motorcycles and motor-scooters btw. I don’t know how fast I’ve gone (no crotch rockets) but highway speeds.

I’ll get a pair of the thicker expensive torque arms in addition to my carbon steel frame.

Any idea the tensile difference between a real steel frame and these cheap carbon-steel frames? I couldn’t find a 100% steel frame.

I’m not tryna go that fast…but I am trying to build something I don’t have to pedal and can take me 30 miles a day around hilly city streets.

Right now I’m looking at 2 motors…a 1500watt and a 1200 watt. The 1200 watt cost $200 more. Not sure if the motor is better or if they are charging for better kit components.

The 1200 has a built in controller.

EBIKELING Waterproof 1200W Ebike Conversion Kit for Electric Bike 26" Rear Wheel, Electric Bicycle Hub Motor Built-in Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MY4GHBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BP37VFTN7FPRAQDFGP9C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The 1500 watt is lower priced but seems to have everything I want.

EBIKELING Waterproof 1200W Ebike Conversion Kit for Electric Bike 26" Rear Wheel, Electric Bicycle Hub Motor Built-in Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MY4GHBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BP37VFTN7FPRAQDFGP9C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry…wrong link for the 1500 watt.

Here it is..

Voilamart 26" Rear Wheel Electric Bicycle Conversion Kit, 48V 1500W E-Bike Powerful Hub Motor Kit with Intelligent Controller and PAS System, Restricted to 750W for Road Bike https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B5PQV76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EG49BJ1K1QE2V7P51WR4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
Links to Amazon may include affiliate code. If you click on an Amazon link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
Note the limits on that last kit, some of these can be disabled for off-road. Some can't.

If you want the high speed, you will need to get some details and do some calculations and decide on a 48, 52, 58, etc. voltage battery. You will need to change your controller, or get one which will handle multiple voltages. This can get a little tricky as they tend to ship you the lower-speed motor if you specify a higher voltage.

There are various ebike simulators which will give you a lot of needed info.

Hub motors with internal controllers should be avoided like the plague and pestilence upon all mankind as their ungodly level of fantastic crapitude so richly deserves.
 
I am looking for the closest thing to an undercover e-scooter available; meaning you don’t really have to pedal at all.

1000 watt mid-drive motor. No limiters.

Twist throttle. Strong battery.

I can’t really see why I would not put a Bafang 1000 watt motor kit on a commuter bike and hide the battery in a back rack bag???

Bafang’s 1000 watt kit is $1k and a used commuter bike is $500-1k. I’m assuming other people don’t go that route because they are not mechanically inclined??? $1,500-2k tops.

The price difference between adding a motor to a used bike and buying a new pre-built 1000 watt bike is like $1-4k of “magical markup”.

That said….

I’m currently looking at the $3k Dost Drop Chain. That’s the best I’ve found so far. They say they ship in a week or so! You can set it to a Class 3 mode so there is no speed limiting.

Downsides are….the Dost only has a 750 watt motor….it has a lever throttle instead of twist, and it looks like what a thief would steal. I’ve had 2 much less attractive bikes stolen already. That aside, it seems like it would be a good bike for me.

The Biktrix Juggernaut is interesting to me at $4k. It looks like it would attract both police and thieves alike though. I don’t like the big tires.

Maybe the Magnum Scout? Other Magnums?

I’ve looked at bikes like the Frey which has great specs but is extremely hard to get.

I used to think the Sondors LX was what I wanted until I found out they limit the speed electronically.

Wattwagon looks great but really pricey. $7k.

Same with the FLX Blade 2.0. $7

I find the fat tire thing annoying. 4” tires on every bike with a 1000 watt motor is ridiculous. It’s like putting up a sign that says you have a big motor for police and thieves.

I’m well aware of the laws and regulations..thank you.

In terms of buying a bike that visually looks “similar” to a “normal” commuter bike…but with a 1000 watt mid drive motor. What do you recommend? Under $4000.
Please check your local laws before your purchase
 
Other than his choice of vendor, I agree with what Human said above. Would be good to know how many miles and years on the BBSHD.

There are hills, and then there are Hills, some can be avoided, others not, pedaling amount you are comfortable with, time involved. There are always trade offs.

For me, I have few hills, none huge, one kinda steep, but a two-minute climb with no motor, and much younger. The higher breakage rate, increased maintenance, more complex install, and higher cost of the mid-drive just were not justified.

Overheat times for motors vary a quite a bit, the 1-2 minutes I mentioned is for small geared hubs like mine, the larger heavier DD drives can be more like 5-7 minutes, and that can be greatly extended.

There are also a few well-made geared hubs that can be an in-between choice, but the solid reliability of the DD units is just excellent.
The trade-off is weight and a bit of drag when coasting power off. Geared hubs are smaller, lighter, no drag when coasting, but have gears to break. Mine has well over 20,000 miles with no problems, but that is above average for most. Replacement gears are cheap, order an extra set with the motor, do not pay shipping a second time.

Funny OP mentioned small rear wheels, this is the trick to make a DD a great hill climber. Just feed it more volts, and they will suck some amps when climbing major hills, and some steps need to be taken to compensate for the heat, but they will climb walls. The small wheel acts just like a hill-climbing gear, the higher volts compensates when speed is needed

Speed - 28 MPH is a legal max many places for a bicycle, which needs functional pedals and chain. Some places 28 MPH is pedelec only, throttle no more than 20. Do you NEED 30 mph? Not is it cool, is it fun, but do you want to be doing 30 on your roads and traffic conditions? On a BICYCLE, on a regular basis? I decided I did not, and was concerned a 20 MPH maximum might be regulated, I just wanted a bit faster, a LOT easier, and not much heavier than my existing bike.

Forgot to ask how much you weigh, this is a significant factor, also can you charge at work, to use a lighter battery if desired, also do you need to lift the bike at all or frequently.

If the mounting points, or dropouts, for your wheels are carbon or aluminum or anything but steel, you will need some reinforcement for these areas as you get into higher wattage motors. The axel is trying to spin itself out of the mount. Then there is regen braking.

Note that hub motors come in different windings, or turn counts, basically speed at a given voltage. Roughly, a given motor in a given wheel does 20 mph at 40 volt, does 30 mph at 60V, in a vacuum with oil, so more like 28. So when you buy BrandX motor, in a 26" wheel, with a particular turn count, with a particular battery, it does a given speed. You can get a low speed motor that climbs better or a high speed motor that goes faster. The fun part is they give you KV, or else rpm. usually for a 36V battery and you have to do some math or find a motor simulator to get the actual speed.

Spend some time selecting desired speed, climbing ability needed, wheel size, load carried - THIS IS THE KEY to having a good hub motor experience. This is the trade-off for NOT driving thru the gears.

Also, there are LOTS of battery makers and quality varies DRAMATICALLY. 72V packs are fairly common.

Please check your local laws before your PURCHASE.

Karen. Is that you?
 
I am looking for the closest thing to an undercover e-scooter available; meaning you don’t really have to pedal at all.

1000 watt mid-drive motor. No limiters.

Twist throttle. Strong battery.

I can’t really see why I would not put a Bafang 1000 watt motor kit on a commuter bike and hide the battery in a back rack bag???

Bafang’s 1000 watt kit is $1k and a used commuter bike is $500-1k. I’m assuming other people don’t go that route because they are not mechanically inclined??? $1,500-2k tops.

The price difference between adding a motor to a used bike and buying a new pre-built 1000 watt bike is like $1-4k of “magical markup”.

That said….

I’m currently looking at the $3k Dost Drop Chain. That’s the best I’ve found so far. They say they ship in a week or so! You can set it to a Class 3 mode so there is no speed limiting.

Downsides are….the Dost only has a 750 watt motor….it has a lever throttle instead of twist, and it looks like what a thief would steal. I’ve had 2 much less attractive bikes stolen already. That aside, it seems like it would be a good bike for me.

The Biktrix Juggernaut is interesting to me at $4k. It looks like it would attract both police and thieves alike though. I don’t like the big tires.

Maybe the Magnum Scout? Other Magnums?

I’ve looked at bikes like the Frey which has great specs but is extremely hard to get.

I used to think the Sondors LX was what I wanted until I found out they limit the speed electronically.

Wattwagon looks great but really pricey. $7k.

Same with the FLX Blade 2.0. $7

I find the fat tire thing annoying. 4” tires on every bike with a 1000 watt motor is ridiculous. It’s like putting up a sign that says you have a big motor for police and thieves.

I’m well aware of the laws and regulations..thank you.

In terms of buying a bike that visually looks “similar” to a “normal” commuter bike…but with a 1000 watt mid drive motor. What do you recommend? Under $4000.
Look at Eunoeau specter st. I have one and is sensational. Top line bafang 620 along with 27.5x3 wheels which makes much more fun than having fatties on it
 
I am looking for the closest thing to an undercover e-scooter available; meaning you don’t really have to pedal at all.

1000 watt mid-drive motor. No limiters.

Twist throttle. Strong battery.

I can’t really see why I would not put a Bafang 1000 watt motor kit on a commuter bike and hide the battery in a back rack bag???

Bafang’s 1000 watt kit is $1k and a used commuter bike is $500-1k. I’m assuming other people don’t go that route because they are not mechanically inclined??? $1,500-2k tops.

The price difference between adding a motor to a used bike and buying a new pre-built 1000 watt bike is like $1-4k of “magical markup”.

That said….

I’m currently looking at the $3k Dost Drop Chain. That’s the best I’ve found so far. They say they ship in a week or so! You can set it to a Class 3 mode so there is no speed limiting.

Downsides are….the Dost only has a 750 watt motor….it has a lever throttle instead of twist, and it looks like what a thief would steal. I’ve had 2 much less attractive bikes stolen already. That aside, it seems like it would be a good bike for me.

The Biktrix Juggernaut is interesting to me at $4k. It looks like it would attract both police and thieves alike though. I don’t like the big tires.

Maybe the Magnum Scout? Other Magnums?

I’ve looked at bikes like the Frey which has great specs but is extremely hard to get.

I used to think the Sondors LX was what I wanted until I found out they limit the speed electronically.

Wattwagon looks great but really pricey. $7k.

Same with the FLX Blade 2.0. $7

I find the fat tire thing annoying. 4” tires on every bike with a 1000 watt motor is ridiculous. It’s like putting up a sign that says you have a big motor for police and thieves.

I’m well aware of the laws and regulations..thank you.

In terms of buying a bike that visually looks “similar” to a “normal” commuter bike…but with a 1000 watt mid drive motor. What do you recommend? Under $4000.
I have the Bafang 750W on a Schwinn Kempo and on a Bacchetta Corsa recumbent. I have one battery (48v x 15A) I switch between them. The Schwinn has 38mm tires, the Bacchetta has 23mm tires. Both bikes have a thumb throttle , but I believe you can get a twist throttle too. I wouldn't have an ebike without a throttle. All has been working perfectly for about four years now.
 
I am looking for the closest thing to an undercover e-scooter available; meaning you don’t really have to pedal at all.

1000 watt mid-drive motor. No limiters.

Twist throttle. Strong battery.

I can’t really see why I would not put a Bafang 1000 watt motor kit on a commuter bike and hide the battery in a back rack bag???

Bafang’s 1000 watt kit is $1k and a used commuter bike is $500-1k. I’m assuming other people don’t go that route because they are not mechanically inclined??? $1,500-2k tops.

The price difference between adding a motor to a used bike and buying a new pre-built 1000 watt bike is like $1-4k of “magical markup”.

That said….

I’m currently looking at the $3k Dost Drop Chain. That’s the best I’ve found so far. They say they ship in a week or so! You can set it to a Class 3 mode so there is no speed limiting.

Downsides are….the Dost only has a 750 watt motor….it has a lever throttle instead of twist, and it looks like what a thief would steal. I’ve had 2 much less attractive bikes stolen already. That aside, it seems like it would be a good bike for me.

The Biktrix Juggernaut is interesting to me at $4k. It looks like it would attract both police and thieves alike though. I don’t like the big tires.

Maybe the Magnum Scout? Other Magnums?

I’ve looked at bikes like the Frey which has great specs but is extremely hard to get.

I used to think the Sondors LX was what I wanted until I found out they limit the speed electronically.

Wattwagon looks great but really pricey. $7k.

Same with the FLX Blade 2.0. $7

I find the fat tire thing annoying. 4” tires on every bike with a 1000 watt motor is ridiculous. It’s like putting up a sign that says you have a big motor for police and thieves.

I’m well aware of the laws and regulations..thank you.

In terms of buying a bike that visually looks “similar” to a “normal” commuter bike…but with a 1000 watt mid drive motor. What do you recommend? Under $4000.
I have the Bafang 750W on a Schwinn Kempo and on a Bacchetta Corsa recumbent. I have one battery (48v x 15A) I switch between them. The Schwinn has 38mm tires, the Bacchetta has 23mm tires. Both bikes have a thumb throttle , but I believe you can get a twist throttle too. I wouldn't have an ebike without a throttle. All has been working perfectly for about four years now.
 
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