Dual Motor E-Bike Recommendations

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I am looking for a dual-motor electric bike for my daily commute, with a budget of $1,500 to $2,300.

Use Cases and Requirements:​


Range: I commute 20 miles round trip every day. While most e-bikes meet this requirement, I would prefer one that can extend to 60 miles, allowing me to charge every 3-5 days. Alternatively, I would like a bike that can accommodate dual batteries to ensure consistent usage.


Speed: I need a bike that can reach at least 30 mph for faster commutes. I don’t mind pedaling a bit and am open to cadence or torque sensing. I enjoy riding at high speeds.


Terrain and Conditions: I have a cabin in the mountains, just 0.5 miles from the ski slopes, which requires riding in snow and necessitates fat tires. During summer, I encounter rugged terrains about once a month. Living in the Pacific Northwest, I also need a bike that can handle various weather conditions. My commute includes a steep dirt hill approximately 30 yards long, so climbing ability is crucial.


Dimensions and Weight: I ride solo and weigh about 150 lbs.


Reliability, Durability, and Spare Parts: I prefer UL-certified Bafang motors, but they are often pricey. I'm also open to Chinese bikes and parts, provided I can find compatible spare parts. Some parts, like Aniioki’s seat, may be a challenge due to a wider-than-standard seatpost, but I can work around that if necessary.


Warranty, Accessibility, and Customer Service: I value quick responses and minimal hassle with warranties. I don’t mind language barriers as long as the service is friendly.


Style: I’m not too concerned about aesthetics, although I do like the look of the Aventon Adventure2. I'm fine with mopeds, A1 models, etc., as long as I can attach a rear rack and tow.


Honestly, about 97% of my riding will be on flat, dry, and wet roads. While I can take longer routes to avoid dirt hills, if I want a bike for long-term use, it would be great to have one that can handle extended range and snowy conditions.


Potential Dual-Motor Options:​


  • Meelod XT600DL($1999)
  • Meelod DK300 MAX($1599)
  • Aniioki A8 52V Dual Motor(2,499)
  • Ariel D Class or Grizzly
  • Bandit X-Trail Pro($2299)
  • Eahora Romeo II or Pro (150 lbs!)
  • Ecells Super Monarch
  • Ecocogy G7
  • Eunoreau Fat or Defender
  • Hanevear H100
  • KETELES K800
  • Lankeleisi X3000
  • Lankeleisi MG740 Plus
  • Lankeleisi Black Knight
  • Pedal AWD (S)
  • Philodo H8
  • Wallke H7

I’m sure there are more options I haven't mentioned...


If you have any recommendations, I would greatly appreciate your input!
 
I love my Ridstar E26 Pro but it doesn't have dual batteries. Anyone can add more batteries though it isn't hard to do. I bought mine in Oct and already have about 555 miles on it. Top speed is around 33mph it has full suspension and hyd. brakes. When I bought mine the price was right around $1200 another $400 for a second battery and you're golden... BTW I am over 6 ft tall and 200lbs. I generally get about 40 miles to a charge when pedaling along with the motor. If you want to be able to input useful pedaling at speeds over 18mph you will need to change the gearing (sprockets) that's the same with any and all E-bikes except maybe Aniioki.

 
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Freego F3 Pro Max 55ah dual battery, dual motor, 25amp controllers. I get anywhere from 80-120 miles depending on if I pedal or not. It has 2200miles on it now, without a single problem.
1000001165.jpg
 
I think with your combination of budget, terrain and feature set, you can't have what you want. Something is going to have to give. The steep hill and the snow in particular are going to be difficult to overcome.

I did a pretty deep dive on the Aniioki A8 dual motor bike. I build awd bikes myself and have a few generations of same under my belt. The Aniioki struck me as being unusual in that I couldn't find any shady compromises of the sort that make the inexperienced rider not realize what they could have had if the bike had been designed more thoughtfully without cut corners. Its one weakness (besides the seatpost size) was the brake rotors, which are smart to be so big/thick but I could not find an aftermarket replacement source for them, and thats an item you can expect to wear out. I actually have contacted them today asking about that and we will see what their answer is.

On general principles, I'll say if you want an ebike that can handle everything you are talking about, you want a mid drive powering the rear motor. But they flat out do not exist on the commercial market.
img_20200911_153242[1].jpg


The fact you only weigh 150 lbs, and the Aniioki seems to be pretty high-powered makes me think that its going to be able to overcome the weakness of single-speed axle-power, and do your hills and snow.
 
In my experience, independent control over the two motors is important; dual controllers, dual displays, dual throttles...

A DIY project allows for more creative solutions. I used a direct drive hub motor on the front and a geared hub on the rear.
The direct drive allows for regen braking which provides firm breaking regardless of weather conditions and
the brake pads last almost indefinitely:) On hilly terrain, a 15% power recovery is possible.

The direct drive and geared hub play together nicely:
The direct drive is silky smooth, whisper quiet and great for cruising the flats.
The geared hub provides quick acceleration and strong hill climbing abillity.
In actual practice, I'm using both motors continually, varying the ratio of power between front and rear.

I've been riding this combo for two years now;
it really is the best of both worlds in my opinion.
 
The only bike on that list I would consider is the Ariel Grizzly. The rest of those brands will most likely leave you high and dry in case of trouble.

I like the D class, but it’s RWD, not AWD.

You won’t be pedaling it much though. eBikes with bench seats aren’t comfortable to pedal. They chafe the inner thighs.

Look into your local laws, and don’t assume they will never be enforced either. > 28 mph on an unlicensed bike is illegal almost everywhere.

One thing you might consider is that most of your stated requirements point to a very heavy bike that is not pedal-able. Something simpler, like a much lighter hard tail mountain bike would be just as much fun and much better for your fitness. Either that or just get yourself a 125 cc scooter For commuting, so you can put the speed and range requirements to the side and get something pedal-able. (Which is more fun than you think)

The AWD eMoped you’re considering will most likely not be legal on multi-use trails too.
 
I will add that Ariel Rider has a pretty big following, as they made among the first eMopeds and the owner seems to give a damn.
 
In my experience, independent control over the two motors is important; dual controllers, dual displays, dual throttles...
200% agreed. Put that in my awd manifesto, in fact.
A DIY project allows for more creative solutions.
... and for higher quality and much higher performance, since you are building a bike to do a good job, not to make a profit.
The geared hub provides quick acceleration and strong hill climbing abillity.
I'm going to have to disagree on that one. My earlier 2wd bikes were powerful dual geared hub motors. A direct-drive on the front has the advantages you state, but the disadvantage of much less torque, unless you use one so big it overcomes this inherent feature of DD vs. geared. Anyway, with a 30ah 52v battery with a 90a continuous BMS, and dual 35a controllers powering two 80 Nm fat geared hub motors, totalling up about 4kw of peak output on a full charge, that was a pretty darn powerful setup. On flat ground, at intersections if I didn't use my brain I'd run into the bumper of the car ahead of me when the light turned green. And the motors never even got more than warm.

All that changed when I moved the bike to a place that is all low but steep hills. Now we've got groaning motors trying to spin fast, but bogging and heating up instead. Barely adequate performance. A bike that had almost 7000 happy miles on it, that I expected to last forever, obviously wouldn't in this different terrain.

So I built another bike, with a mid drive in the back, and it totally solved the problem. Having a helper up front also eliminated all of the shock a mid drive puts on the drivetrain and I started getting effectively unlimited life on chains and cassettes.

Today I hauled three bags of pea gravel (about 165 lbs of cargo) plus my 235 lb self plus another 100 lbs for giant bike lock, tools ... and bike. Up a hill to get home. Thats just not going to happen with a hub motor'd ebike; even a 2wd.

But I still have my last-built 2wd hub bike and within its limits its great.
In actual practice, I'm using both motors continually, varying the ratio of power between front and rear.
Same. There's a stretch of path near the beach that is often overrun with sand. I max out pedal assist on the front motor and back it off on the back. Being able to vary power wheel to wheel, both throttle and PAS, at the needs of the moment, with a controller that can pump serious power to either or both wheels, is something you won't typically get with a store-bought bike.

I was looking at an in depth Youtube review of the Aniioki A8 and it turned out the reviewer could not dial out the front wheel spin. He knew enough to know that is only fun for a few minutes and is dangerous in day to day riding. He was able to reduce it some, but not eliminate it.
I've been riding this combo for two years now;
it really is the best of both worlds in my opinion.
Once you see how a bike can just work better across the board with distributed traction, its hard to go back. I will say though that the benefits of an awd build get more difficult to justify as you reduce the size of the bike.

I am looking at doing a light-weight 2wd bike, and just undergoing the exercise has made it clear how much tougher it is to make a build that makes sense. I'm hovering around a Surly Bridge Club in Size Large, with the front wheel powered by a Bafang G020 - which is a perfect motor for a 100mm fork, but damn heavy - or an AKM-100, which is lighter weight but the 48v version needs a 15a instead of the 30a controller the Bafang can tolerate.
 
I live in the foothills of the Appalacians.
My routes are like riding a roller-coaster.
This build has proven itself worthy of the challenge.

There's a 19-degree hill close by that the locals use to test their new vehicles;
you know the routine: get a box of beer and four or five of your buddies and
see if the new jalopy can make it to the top.

I also use this hill for my testing ground:
With my AWD, I make it up the hill in 3rd gear.
Even get thumbs up from the locals when
they see me climbing that bad boy.

This was my first post on this forum and
instead of a welcome, I got a line by line
critique of my post. What's going on here?
goodbye farewell auf wiedersehen adieu
 
You got discussion from someone who has direct experience and who offered a counterpoint based on that experience. If you can't handle discussion and respectful disagreement, then you may want to stay away from discussion fora. Especially since my post wasn't all about you and some of it was agreeing with what you said.
 
I am looking for a dual-motor electric bike for my daily commute, with a budget of $1,500 to $2,300.

Use Cases and Requirements:​


Range: I commute 20 miles round trip every day. While most e-bikes meet this requirement, I would prefer one that can extend to 60 miles, allowing me to charge every 3-5 days. Alternatively, I would like a bike that can accommodate dual batteries to ensure consistent usage.


Speed: I need a bike that can reach at least 30 mph for faster commutes. I don’t mind pedaling a bit and am open to cadence or torque sensing. I enjoy riding at high speeds.


Terrain and Conditions: I have a cabin in the mountains, just 0.5 miles from the ski slopes, which requires riding in snow and necessitates fat tires. During summer, I encounter rugged terrains about once a month. Living in the Pacific Northwest, I also need a bike that can handle various weather conditions. My commute includes a steep dirt hill approximately 30 yards long, so climbing ability is crucial.


Dimensions and Weight: I ride solo and weigh about 150 lbs.


Reliability, Durability, and Spare Parts: I prefer UL-certified Bafang motors, but they are often pricey. I'm also open to Chinese bikes and parts, provided I can find compatible spare parts. Some parts, like Aniioki’s seat, may be a challenge due to a wider-than-standard seatpost, but I can work around that if necessary.


Warranty, Accessibility, and Customer Service: I value quick responses and minimal hassle with warranties. I don’t mind language barriers as long as the service is friendly.


Style: I’m not too concerned about aesthetics, although I do like the look of the Aventon Adventure2. I'm fine with mopeds, A1 models, etc., as long as I can attach a rear rack and tow.


Honestly, about 97% of my riding will be on flat, dry, and wet roads. While I can take longer routes to avoid dirt hills, if I want a bike for long-term use, it would be great to have one that can handle extended range and snowy conditions.


Potential Dual-Motor Options:​


  • Meelod XT600DL($1999)
  • Meelod DK300 MAX($1599)
  • Aniioki A8 52V Dual Motor(2,499)
  • Ariel D Class or Grizzly
  • Bandit X-Trail Pro($2299)
  • Eahora Romeo II or Pro (150 lbs!)
  • Ecells Super Monarch
  • Ecocogy G7
  • Eunoreau Fat or Defender
  • Hanevear H100
  • KETELES K800
  • Lankeleisi X3000
  • Lankeleisi MG740 Plus
  • Lankeleisi Black Knight
  • Pedal AWD (S)
  • Philodo H8
  • Wallke H7

I’m sure there are more options I haven't mentioned...


If you have any recommendations, I would greatly appreciate your input!
you need a surron or a trail 90.
 
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