Hello I'm new (green) to the ebike trend and forum but I just recently bought a juiced ebike a 48 volt cross current and u cannot find a controller compatable to the juiced controller except for the juiced website of coarse in which case they want $199.00 U.S. for it and not only that the 48 volt controller is on back order . If there's anyone out there who has had this problem please get back to me it would be very much appreciated
Having the same issue....albeit a few years later than you. Did you ever come up with a solution? Thanks.
1. So I can best help - what model Juiced Bike - and what voltage 48V/older or 52V more recent model ?
2. How did you come to decide you need a New Controller ? What are the Syumptoms/Issues ?
3. Yes - a replacement controller from Juiced would be "Plug-N-Play" - if you go to replace the Juiced Controller with a Genric Controller - you will need to know how to wire Generic in Juiced system.
4. Your zip code is LA - so you know Juiced is based in San Diego - with your Serial # - you can call Mon-Fri 8AM-5PM (888) 303-8889 - their Customer Service Reps are helpful to check for that replacement controller.
2. How did you come to decide you need a New Controller ? What are the Syumptoms/Issues ?
3. Yes - a replacement controller from Juiced would be "Plug-N-Play" - if you go to replace the Juiced Controller with a Genric Controller - you will need to know how to wire Generic in Juiced system.
4. Your zip code is LA - so you know Juiced is based in San Diego - with your Serial # - you can call Mon-Fri 8AM-5PM (888) 303-8889 - their Customer Service Reps are helpful to check for that replacement controller.
As long as you're not stuck on plug and play, there's lots of programable controllers you can use. I'm using one of these on my bike and like it a lot.
https://www.cloudelectric.com/product-p/kelly-kls-s-series.htm
https://www.cloudelectric.com/product-p/kelly-kls-s-series.htm
Thanks for the reply. I have a Juiced Crosscurrent V1, 48V, 350W hub motor from 2016. I've been in contact with Juiced support via text. They had me check wiring connections which I've done multiple times on all connections (unplug, inspected, and replugged). Nothing seemed amiss there. Also had me send photos of the battery connections and those all looked good too to my eyes and theirs. They indicated that I likely would need new controller to resolve the issue....but honestly who really knows. They have none in stock and no eta as to when they will have more. And no way to get waitlisted so that I know when it is back in stock.
The issue currently is that when I power the bike on, within about 5-10 seconds all assist setting lights blink in unison repeatedly for about 20 seconds and then the display shuts off. During the initial 5-10 seconds, I can cycle through assist levels and the throttle works (with caveat that it seems touchy, like it occasionally revs and then tapers off and then revs again. After the lights all start blinking the bike still operates similarly with the exception of being able to cycle through assist levels. And of course once everything shuts down, no e-assist remains.
Honestly I don't currently know how to wire in generic controller with the juiced system but am plenty handy and would feel comfortable doing so with some guidance on exactly how to go about that. My main question would have to do with the torque sensor and how that would communicate with new generic controller. My understanding was that this was all tuned and controlled specific to Juiced parts. Would an entirely new torque sensor also be needed? And then would the riding experience be somewhat compromised? I have a Ride1up Cafe Cruiser and that thing lurches when I stop pedaling sometimes. Have never had that take place on the Crosscurrent. Many thanks.
The "Replace Controller Thing" or the "Replace Display Thing" are both plateaus that I have not reached on any of my eBikes - yet !
Controllers and Displays are two areas where the eBike Space suffers from a lack of Standardization for sure.
1. FYI - 2016 Cross Current Info Page Attached.
2. Canadian outfit hilleater.ca (250) 538-0911 were the Canadian Juiced Distributors back then - and back then and thru to today they are enthusiastic eBike people (which are getting rarer and rarer).
3. Might be a clesner shot to wire in both a New Controller and a New Display - don't freak out - does not have to be a arm & a leg - and it's a heck of lot easier installing a new controller with new display than work/around a generic controllet to a mysterios display or vice versa.
4. Have you actually had your controller Unplugged and in youre hand showing all the Controller side wiring connectors ?
One reason I ask this has to dso with the "deeper engineering" Juice does on their connectors/hookups - by either adding metal twist locks - or modifying a standard connector by adding a 2nd alignment notch.
It will go better if you are able to have that controller in your hand and be able to snap clear detail photo of each connector on the Controller side and clear photo of the matching connector on the Cross Current Side - or just go All Fresh In
Controllers and Displays are two areas where the eBike Space suffers from a lack of Standardization for sure.
1. FYI - 2016 Cross Current Info Page Attached.
2. Canadian outfit hilleater.ca (250) 538-0911 were the Canadian Juiced Distributors back then - and back then and thru to today they are enthusiastic eBike people (which are getting rarer and rarer).
3. Might be a clesner shot to wire in both a New Controller and a New Display - don't freak out - does not have to be a arm & a leg - and it's a heck of lot easier installing a new controller with new display than work/around a generic controllet to a mysterios display or vice versa.
4. Have you actually had your controller Unplugged and in youre hand showing all the Controller side wiring connectors ?
One reason I ask this has to dso with the "deeper engineering" Juice does on their connectors/hookups - by either adding metal twist locks - or modifying a standard connector by adding a 2nd alignment notch.
It will go better if you are able to have that controller in your hand and be able to snap clear detail photo of each connector on the Controller side and clear photo of the matching connector on the Cross Current Side - or just go All Fresh In
Thanks for all of this info. I have had the controller out previously and checked all connections there too. I can pull it out and photograph. Like I said I'm not opposed to swapping out controller and display and understand that this isn't a plug and play prospect with the existing wiring/connection types. I just have limited knowledge of parts that can be retained, and which connections can be retrofitted and how. I will follow up once I get photos together.
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