Brakes Can I Replace Zeegr F1 Logan Disc Brake Pads Without Removing Wheel?

CoffeeandBikes

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It's time to replace brake pads. I have these Logan hydraulic disc brakes with a cotter pin retaining the clip and pads. Is there a realistically easy way to replace the pads without removing the wheels? My bike doesn't have quick release, and I'd rather not mess with removing the back wheel.

Also, does anyone know of quality replacement pads?

Thanks!
 
No the wheel should not need to be taken off to replace the brake pads. You'll have to remove the caliper but that should be easy enough. One back the plunger screws in the brake handles out / off, do not remove! Two remove the screws / bolts holding the caliper to the caliper mount. Three remove caliper replace brakes and reinstall. Don't let the caliper hang by the hose! DO NOT ALLOW THE HANDLES TO BE PRESSED WHILE THE CALIPER IS OFF!
Odds are you will need to replace the front pads twice before you need to replace the rear pads the first time. Generally speaking the front does 60-80% of braking...
 
No the wheel should not need to be taken off to replace the brake pads. You'll have to remove the caliper but that should be easy enough. One back the plunger screws in the brake handles out / off, do not remove! Two remove the screws / bolts holding the caliper to the caliper mount. Three remove caliper replace brakes and reinstall. Don't let the caliper hang by the hose! DO NOT ALLOW THE HANDLES TO BE PRESSED WHILE THE CALIPER IS OFF!
Odds are you will need to replace the front pads twice before you need to replace the rear pads the first time. Generally speaking the front does 60-80% of braking...
Thanks! What's strange is the back brake pads look worse, but I think something got in there and boogered them. The front brakes certainly take the lion's share of the braking. If it wasn't for the rear one looking a bit torn up I could probably go a couple hundred more miles. I've got around 450 on the bike now. I've been slacking. It should be over 1,000 by now. :D
 
Thanks! What's strange is the back brake pads look worse, but I think something got in there and boogered them. The front brakes certainly take the lion's share of the braking. If it wasn't for the rear one looking a bit torn up I could probably go a couple hundred more miles. I've got around 450 on the bike now. I've been slacking. It should be over 1,000 by now. :D

You know it's funny brake pads are nearly indestructible in many ways. Yet a few grains of sand or a drop or two of the wrong chemical and they practically melt away.

My bike only has around 600 miles and it's front brakes look like they will be lucky to make it to 1000 miles. The weird thing is I am very easy on the brakes and really only use them for the last few feet of stopping, EXCEPT going down big hills where I can smell the heat build up in the brakes. Some of the hills here will take you past 50mph from a dead stop before you get to the bottom. My bike gets a little loose / shaky over 30-35mph so going past 50 was a once and done for me!
 
You know it's funny brake pads are nearly indestructible in many ways. Yet a few grains of sand or a drop or two of the wrong chemical and they practically melt away.

My bike only has around 600 miles and it's front brakes look like they will be lucky to make it to 1000 miles. The weird thing is I am very easy on the brakes and really only use them for the last few feet of stopping, EXCEPT going down big hills where I can smell the heat build up in the brakes. Some of the hills here will take you past 50mph from a dead stop before you get to the bottom. My bike gets a little loose / shaky over 30-35mph so going past 50 was a once and done for me!
Same here. BIG HILLS. I let myself get to a little over 40 mph and that was plenty fast, especially since I run the fat tires at 15 psi. I've been riding steep logging roads. One stretch has 8 miles of downhill! I think a few grains of sand got into the rear brake and that's what did it.
 
Same here. BIG HILLS. I let myself get to a little over 40 mph and that was plenty fast, especially since I run the fat tires at 15 psi. I've been riding steep logging roads. One stretch has 8 miles of downhill! I think a few grains of sand got into the rear brake and that's what did it.

We don't really have any long hills just steep! The longest one I can think of that I know of in this county is likely less than 2 miles. However I do not know all the roads here even after near 20 years.
 
There are few calipers which can have the pads removed from the top without pulling the wheel , without seeing the top of your caliper I can’t say if yours is one.

But it’s easier as a rule to drop the wheel anyway.

I have, when wheel removal is a problem, just taken the two calliper mounting bolts off and swung it aside a bit, but you need to be comfortable with realigning the calliper afterwards.
 
There are few calipers which can have the pads removed from the top without pulling the wheel , without seeing the top of your caliper I can’t say if yours is one.

But it’s easier as a rule to drop the wheel anyway.

I have, when wheel removal is a problem, just taken the two calliper mounting bolts off and swung it aside a bit, but you need to be comfortable with realigning the calliper afterwards.
Unfortunately, these can't be pulled from the top. I will most likely remove the caliper since I don't have quick release and there is so much going on with the cables, wires, etc. ALL brake manufacturers should make replacing the pads as simple as possible. It should be "plug and play."
 
Unfortunately, these can't be pulled from the top. I will most likely remove the caliper since I don't have quick release and there is so much going on with the cables, wires, etc. ALL brake manufacturers should make replacing the pads as simple as possible. It should be "plug and play."
Truer words were never spoken… you have no idea of the stupidity I see building the latest bikes. I swear serviceability is not considered in product design, nor interchangeability.
 
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