BMS & Battery Help! (Philodo Forester Ebike)

Chuck T

Chuck T

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Philodo Forester Bike. Dual motor, 5000w, 26ah 60volt batteries.
Bike started shutting off and on about 1 second each when running. . Then shutting down conpletely. Shut everything down and you could restart the bike sometimes.
Check voltage from battery on the 5 pins in back sommetimes yes sometimes no. Open up the battery check main connector in back of battery Yes, check at 5 pins sometimes yes sometimes no. Didn't open up the pack itself looking for shorts etc.
This happened to two batteries with in 2 to 3 days, Same two I've always had, i have about 3200 miles on them.
Installed new battery just 1 , everything find no problems.
I've run dual batteries on three different bikes and never had any problems. Some with and some without BMS System. Could the problem be cauesed by the 2 BMS systems fighting each other and not showing any damage in pack its self . Chuck
 
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Fair enough.

Personally I've always oversized wiring and components where ever and whenever possible and I've have extremely good luck with it. But I also feel I should point out this was often with more robust analog type systems. Yet that makes me think it would be even more beneficial with all these high tech computer aided components!
 
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Don't known if 16 oe 17 cells.Havnot opened sealed wrap. 50 amp batteries.
tried Y again no help.
Orded new controllor today. Going to send off batteries to rebuild also. They will also check chargers.
Running on 1 new battery now. No Y, No nothing.
Can see voltage drop now when bringing on both motors without dual batteries.
Will notify when I get Controller and or Rebuilded Batteries. Chuck
 
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Chuck T said:
Don't known if 16 oe 17 cells.Havnot opened sealed wrap. 50 amp batteries.
tried Y again no help.
Orded new controllor today. Going to send off batteries to rebuild also. They will also check chargers.
Running on 1 new battery now. No Y, No nothing.
Can see voltage drop now when bringing on both motors without dual batteries.
Will notify when I get Controller and or Rebuilded Batteries. Chuck
Click to expand...

It should say on the batteries somewhere if it's 16s or 17s. Shoot even your charger should give you an idea because it should give a stated charge voltage of either 67.2 or 71.4 volts. If it says 67.2 then it's a 16s if 71.4 then its 17s.
 
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Chuck T said:
Don't known if 16 oe 17 cells.Havnot opened sealed wrap. 50 amp batteries.
tried Y again no help.
Orded new controllor today. Going to send off batteries to rebuild also. They will also check chargers.
Running on 1 new battery now. No Y, No nothing.
Can see voltage drop now when bringing on both motors without dual batteries.
Will notify when I get Controller and or Rebuilded Batteries. Chuck
Click to expand...
who is going to rebuild and check for you?

I can recommend:
https://www.northeastbatterysystems.com/
(860) 951-1468 Talk to Kevin
 
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Chuck T said:
Draw per motor 22.4 amps, 2 motors. 44.8 amps. What amp would you use?
Click to expand...
That depends is that the constant draw or the peak draw? If that's peak draw personally I wouldn't use anything less than 60 amps. If that's constant or possible continuous draw then probably closer to 90 amp!

After a lifetime of working on things I've learned it's always better to have room to spare. Things tend to run hot and burn out when you push them close to the maximum. Wiring, connectors and components last longer when they are not pushed to the limits!

Then again I'm just a person who has been their own power company for 18 years and who has been repairing and building things for better than 4 decades. I also hate having to do things twice so I try hard to do it right the first time!
 
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Annieolnie said:
That's a big honking battery. BMS's shouldn't fight, but what is your controller set up on that thing? Do you have one controller or two? What happens if you are only running one motor? Did they give you a battery blender? Those are known to break or melt. From what I can see on their website, you have one controller managing both motors. If you unplug the front motor at the motor plug and drive around without it talking to the controller, what happens? The picture of the controller says it has a battery converter. I don't know what that means, unless that is a blender. If both your batteries seem fine, i would be questioning the controller. Is your bike still under warranty? I'm going to post a pic of your bike here because there are people on this forum who are definitely going to have battery envy. There are YouTube videos on testing controllers, but if yours is running dual systems, I'm not sure how to help.

View attachment 22354View attachment 22355
Click to expand...
That looks like a lot of work
 
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Gave up on it a month ago. Put my new battery in it had no problems with it ! Still don't know why the other two batteries failed!

Changed controller just cause.
Solved the problems with this
20251117_122405.jpg
 
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If the battery is disconnected from the bike and showing intermittent 0V at the pins, the failure is mechanical, and it's inside the battery case.

My Theory:You ran a Y-connector for 7 months on a 60V system. Without a blender (diodes), anytime those two batteries weren't perfectly matched voltage-wise, massive current rushed from the higher battery to the lower one.

This creates huge heat at the discharge terminals.
Add 3200 miles of vibration.
Result: The solder joints on the back of those 5 pins inside the battery case have likely cracked or carbonized.
 
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