BB ID too small for Mid Drive

Rit

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I’m new on eBikesForum. I few months ago I started thinking about converting one of my old road bikes (rim brakes) to an eBike for my son to use in bike lanes and on paved bike trails. I researched DIY eBikes and concluded I needed a mid-drive with torque sensing that was programable. Advice from Douglas Howerth at Velocite Velo led me to select a ToSeven DM02.

While I was researching eBike kits and negotiating with Douglas an aluminum MTB with disc brakes – a 2014 Mongoose Stat - popped up on Craigslist with a price way lower than the value of my road bike so I bought it.

Once I received the DM02 I could not slide it through the Mongoose bottom bracket even though the treads were BSA. I searched for this problem on the Internet and on eBikesForum and didn’t get any hits.

The minor diameter spec for BSA threads is 1.335 / 1.323 so the ID of a BB tube in a welded frame before the threads are cut needs to be no larger than 1.335 but can be smaller. The OD of the ToSeven (and, I assume, other mid drives) is 1.315 so there should be 0.020 to 0.008 clearance, BUT if the tube initially has a smaller ID or if it is distorted by welding there may be no clearance which was the case with my Mongoose.

Reamers of the correct size are $200 so instead I bought a 1” diameter grinding wheel at Home Depot and using my electric drill removed high spots in the center of the BB until the ToSeven slid through easily. It took about 1 hour.

I’m hoping that in the future others may stumble on my post and realize they are not alone. It will also be nice if replies include other brands and / or other frame types that may not initially have enough BB clearance for a mid-drive kit.
 
Hi and Welcome to the forums! :cool:

Ya get it done and riding it now? Any pics for us to see? :)
 
Hi and Welcome to the forums! :cool:

Ya get it done and riding it now? Any pics for us to see? :)
I got everything assembled after grinding the BB but my T24 display does not light up! I've contacted ToSeven and Velocite Velo and we are working on it. Pics of the BB before grinding.
 

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I got everything assembled after grinding the BB but my T24 display does not light up! I've contacted ToSeven and Velocite Velo and we are working on it. Pics of the BB before grinding.
oh nice!

Keep us posted :)
 
I've had that issue with a couple of my bafang mid drive builds as well. Same standard I.D. Usually a bit of flashing or even a bit of a screw used in holding a cable guide on the underside of the bottom bracket. For me an aggressive rat tail file worked just fine. Note - apply some grease to the motor shaft before sliding it into the bottom bracket, it really helps if and when you decide to remove the motor.
 
I've seen the same thing on occasion. Usually its some minor imperfection. A cylinder hone if you have one in the right size will do the job, too. Otherwise a half-round file. A rat tail as noted above would also work of course.

Needing to cut a channel thru the threads is a new one, though. I hope that the frame was actually built that way versus needing to do that to fit the motor in.
 
I've had that issue with a couple of my bafang mid drive builds as well. Same standard I.D. Usually a bit of flashing or even a bit of a screw used in holding a cable guide on the underside of the bottom bracket. For me an aggressive rat tail file worked just fine. Note - apply some grease to the motor shaft before sliding it into the bottom bracket, it really helps if and when you decide to remove the motor.
It's good to know that I am not the only DIY builder who found their mid-drive wouldn't slide though the BB. At 0.008" the minimum nominal clearance is quite tight so any protrusion or out of round is a potential problem. My guess is this is most common on welded aluminum frames.
I started with a rat tail file but could see it would take forever. The 1-inch diameter grinding wheel did a good job. Using it I did no damage the BSA threads in case I ever want to convert it back to a pure pedal bike.
 
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