battery recommendations

[FiNGaz]

hi im looking for a decent reliable 52v down tube battery, the more Ah the better really for range, can anyone point me in the right direction? thanks

also i have a 48v setup, if i just put the 52v battery in there with the bigger Ah would it still work, im just going off rc cars etc you can over volt them and they go faster but you run the risk of the motor or speed controller burning out but 4 more volts isnt alot? or is it?

atm i have 48v 10Ah battery

 

[addertooth]

A picture of the baseplate the battery slides into would be very important to this conversation.
There are three popular styles of connector.

 

[FiNGaz]

i would be getting the baseplate with the battery i get

 

[Chuy]

You may not need a new baseplate. It depends what you have now. As for 52v over 48v, what motor you have now?

 

[addertooth]

Some challenges with going with a 52 volt battery.
1. Your controller might not be rated to operate reliably with that voltage.
2. Your display has a "charge level" reading on it; it will show you having charge, when the battery will "self protect" from low voltage, making the bike stop.
3. Other electrical items on your bike (headlamp, tail light) may get more than a desirable amount of voltage fed to them (depending on whether your controller "bucks" the battery voltage to a lower figure, like 12 volts for lamps).

Number 2 is certain to happen, 1 and 3 "may" happen.

 

[FiNGaz]

thanks for the replies, im not sure what kind of motor it is but i know its a 1000w motor, its a 48v system i have, i dont have anything else running off the system like lights, i was just looking for a good down tube battery that has more range but all the 48v ones ive looked at stop at 15Ah then its 52v with 17Ah - 20Ah.
on the .2 do you mean my system will show more charge than it actually has and i could run out of power? but sure the lights on the battery would read their own charge level?

 

[addertooth]

thanks for the replies, im not sure what kind of motor it is but i know its a 1000w motor, its a 48v system i have, i dont have anything else running off the system like lights, i was just looking for a good down tube battery that has more range but all the 48v ones ive looked at stop at 15Ah then its 52v with 17Ah - 20Ah.
on the .2 do you mean my system will show more charge than it actually has and i could run out of power? but sure the lights on the battery would read their own charge level?

If your display uses "bars" instead of a literal voltage reading (such as 50.2V), those bars are "calibrated" for a 48 volt battery, which has a LOWER point where it is "dead" than a 52 Volt battery. This type of display will still show you with one green bar, when the 52 volt battery is actually dead, and nearing the "cut-off voltage" which is imposed by the battery management system (BMS), which is built inside of the battery to protect it from over-discharge.

Summary: You will have one green bar, and the bike will suddenly stop.

 

[FiNGaz]

Yeah its bars, thanks for clearing that up for me, i guess the best i can do is get the 48v 15Ah battery, that will be better than my 5 year old 10.5Ah battery which seems to drop a bar after 3 miles or so when it used to be around 10 miles

 

[addertooth]

There are 20 amp hour 48 volt batteries available.

 

[HumanPerson]

Here's a couple places but they are not cheap...

https://powerfullithium.com/collections/all-batteries/48v
https://www.haniwinner.com/Lithium-battery-for-electric-bicycle/

 

[FiNGaz]

i was probably looking in the wrong place then

 

[MichaelMoore740]

So I have a couple 1000w 30a 48v motors one on Trike and one on OCC pedal chopper and a 48v battery starts out from 52 to 56 v when fully charged so I would not advise putting a 52v battery on a 48v system how you get better power for the motor is by getting 30ah 48v battery and they cost about 400.00 I have a 30ah a 25ah and a 13ah backup on the trike I can go around 50 miles on the trike then another 10 on the backup which I use for pedal chopper The thing is your 48v starts out at 52 or more when fully charged so you really would risk burning up motor and controller So I wish you the best of luck.

 

[EbikeFu]

If your display uses "bars" instead of a literal voltage reading (such as 50.2V), those bars are "calibrated" for a 48 volt battery, which has a LOWER point where it is "dead" than a 52 Volt battery. This type of display will still show you with one green bar, when the 52 volt battery is actually dead, and nearing the "cut-off voltage" which is imposed by the battery management system (BMS), which is built inside of the battery to protect it from over-discharge.

Summary: You will have one green bar, and the bike will suddenly stop.

Oh post logista update You can update the voltage values for each battery level in the advanced setting screen on the three he bites that I have

 

[HumanPerson]

Oh post logista update You can update the voltage values for each battery level in the advanced setting screen on the three he bites that I have

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