...you'll want better crank arms too. The ones that come with the kit do not have the correct Q-factor. It's important to make riding and even sitting on the bike feel balanced.
I'll expand on that a little and say the goal is not so much to have crankarms centered under you as it is to have the pedals centered under you. That means you have a more options than just changing crankarms. The standard-issue BBS02 arms are both straight. No non-drive-side offset. BBSHD crankarms are SUPPOSED to come with crankarms that have an 18mm non-drive-side offset (it sticks out 18mm further on the left). This should get you pretty close to centered UNLESS you have to shim the motor to some degree to get the secondary gear housing to not touch the chainstay. Regardless, you want to, during your build, measure how far away from each chainstay each of your crankarms are, and then solve for that difference.
![pxl_20220322_224126590_800[1].jpg](https://ebikesforum.com/attachments/pxl_20220322_224126590_800-1-jpg.18468/ "pxl_20220322_224126590_800[1].jpg")
That picture shows forged Shimano crankarms that are not going to work on this 68mm bottom bracketed frame. You can buy a set of offset crankarms. The Bafang stock chainrings with the 18mm offset will go a long way towards fixing this unevenness and are (barely) adequate otherwise. You can fine tune the process with putting just one pedal washer on one side, and no washer on the other for a 3mm correction. You can also use a pedal extender on just one side for a 20mm correction. Or - if and only if your body ergonomics like a wide Quack Factor - do combinations of washers and extenders to widen the pedals but still center them under you. In addition to Lekkie and Shimano, Miranda sells forged crankarms that have a non drive side offset for around US$70. If you are pedaling, measure the distance to the inside of each pedal and spend some time figuring out how to get the pedals centered.
The settings that make the motor do it's thing require a bit of tweaking to make it ride well. The factory setting will work, but most people end up changing them to suit their riding style.
I'll go further and say the factory settings are garbage. Especially if you want to pedal, but the clunky motor engagement that comes on hard and strong is part of the reason Bafang mid drives have a reputation for wearing out drivetrains. You can totally eliminate this rough behavior, totally change the character of the motor, still deliver 1750w of power with a BBSHD (52v battery and 30a controller) and have zero extra drivetrain wear. But you have to make the (inexpensive - just buy a US$20 cable) effort to change the motor settings.
https://talesontwowheels.com/2023/08/09/bbshd-settings-for-a-pedaling-cyclist-2023-edition/
... an Eggrider controller. Its nice, but it is small and can be challenging to see some of the measurements on the screen. You can see the important stuff pretty easily.
The ER is actually just a display, not the controller. It gives access to the settings interface, but as you say its OLED display is almost worthless in bright, direct sunlight. Also Eggriders have a phone home feature in them, among others, that can occasionally brick the display, or the app or even the bike. Over the history of the ER v2.0, it seemed like there was a never-ending stream of new ways for it to go haywire after a firmware update, and the ER user groups never stopped having reported problems. The one I own has lost its ability to contact the ER site and as a result I can still ride the bike, but I haven't been able to get firmware updates for years. So if it works its great but it doesn't, always. I go over other options in the linked article above. My personal preference is the Speeed app (use three e's), but more recent Android phones require extra steps to get it installed. The tried and true method used for many years is to use a standard Bafang cable, a laptop and the Penoff Windows app.
To make long story short I want to buy this Electric engine from Ali - www.aliexpress.com/e/_oFR1Bv3
