Are these normal phase wire voltages?

Victor Dupont

New member
Local time
3:08 PM
Joined
Jul 13, 2025
Messages
22
Location
France
Hi there!

As I am trying to troubleshoot a problem on my electric bike, and got stuck, I tried measuring the voltage on the phase wires, to know whether my controller is faulty.

I would like to know whether that looks normal or abnormal to you, since I have no idea what the correct values are, and I don’t know whether my methodology makes sense.

The way I measured is the following.​


In order to have something that might make sense, I disconnected the phase wires from the motor, so that it doesn’t move. I kept the hall sensors and speedometer wires plugged, so that the controller has the information coming from the motor. I disconnected the brake cutoffs and lamp, to avoid them interfering. I also opened the controller, to be able to measure voltage directly on the circuit board, to rule out potential wire issues.

Basically it’s a pretty normal setup, except for the phase wires that are disconnected and the controller that is open.

I turn the pedal when I want to measure, and then I use a basic multimeter to measure voltage on each phase wire’s solder point.

Again, note that the motor doesn’t move. The pedal movement just ensures that the controller gets the signal to kick off the motor.

In order to change the sensors value, I simply turn the back wheel backwards and measure the hall sensors wire solder points to know where it landed.

Let me know if you think this method of measurement is not usable.

If it's of any use, my controller is a Lishui EPAC Drive System, part number LSW06-90B1CF SB.

Here are my results:​


When idle, meaning pedal is not turning:

IMG_3272 - copie.JPG


When turning pedal:
IMG_3314.JPG



Some things to explain:​


- I made several experiments for each motor position, and noted the result of each measurement, separated by commas. I made sure to turn the wheel, and thus change the motor position, between each experiment.
- when I include an arrow, such as 0->9, it means that for a few seconds it was at 9, and after maybe 4 or 5 seconds it rose to 9
- twice I had results that were the same as when idle, and controller’s light was flashing differently, not regularly. After I turned the wheel it went back to « normal ». That’s what I indicated as « flashing ».

There are a few things I notice:​


1. when idle, meaning the pedal is not turning, the yellow phase wire has 13 V voltage when measured using DC mode on multimeter. I would have expected 0V.
2. my measurements when pedal is turning seem to hint that in a normal setting, each phase wire would be at either 0 or 35V, which is close to the battery’s voltage, and that the wire with the 35V would be a color that is at 3.3V in the hall sensor cables. This is just my guess, tell me if that’s how it’s supposed to be
3. It seems to me that the most abnormal measurements seem to be on the yellow phase wire, when it’s supposed to be at 35V, and is instead at 6 or 8V

But again, I am just guessing, I have no idea what the correct values are.

Do you know whether these values are normal or not?

I previously tested for shorts between the phase wires, ground and battery positive, to detect a blown transistor, but everything seemed normal.


Other measurement : with motor connected


I also tested voltage on phase wires when they are connected to the motor. That way everything is exactly as in real life, except for brake cutoffs and lamp which are disconnected.

I only tested when it's idle, meaning I am not turning the pedal.

Here are the results:

image.jpeg


As you can see, there is voltage even though everything's idle.

If my understanding is correct, phase wires are connected through the windings in the motor. Thus I interpret this as controller sending 13V on yellow phase wire, and because others are connected to it through windings in the motor, they are all at 13V.

Do you know whether these values are normal or not?

For those who are interested in the whole history of this bike’s problem, here it is: https://ebikesforum.com/threads/temporary-power-outages-and-motor-noise-megamo-park-urban.9226/

Thanks a lot in advance for the help!
 
Hi there!

I added another measurement to the first message in this thread. I tested with phase wires connected, and everything idle. I still got 13V. See above.

The goal was to be closer to real life.

With these new pieces of information, can we conclude that controller is faulty?

Cheers!
 
Have you simply tested your controller with a multimeter? I know you've enjoyed playing with this motor, but at some point science has to be applied. Your motor has passed your tests, so what is left is the controller. This is on Aliexpress in France, in Euros. It will have the standard 9 pin motor plug, which I am assuming you have, but you should check. You will get to program it, which might be fun for you.

Screenshot_20250920-183912_Chrome.jpg
 
Thanks a lot for the reply, and for the continued help.

There might be a misunderstanding, or it's me not understanding your question.

These tests are precisely aimed at testing the controller. Yes, with a multimeter.

I just thought these numbers might make it possible to conclude that the controller is faulty, and thus I could have this confirmation before moving forward. Do they look normal to you? Have you never measured voltage on phase wires when bike is idle?
 
Your motor has passed your tests, so what is left is the controller
I am confused by this sentence. My understanding from my efforts to troubleshoot was that it was impossible to know whether motor is faulty as long as I didn't know whether controller was acting correctly. This is why I reoriented myself to checking controller.
 
I thought you were testing through the motor. Most of these numbers make no sense to me, but I have only evaluated a few controllers. Did you watch any of the videos on controller testing? You can separate the controller and look for continuity or lost connections. There are cheaper controller and display set ups out there, but you seemed like someone who would like tweaking and adjusting the motor and KT is a reliable brand.

Screenshot_20250921-175045_Chrome.jpg
 
I am confused by this sentence. My understanding from my efforts to troubleshoot was that it was impossible to know whether motor is faulty as long as I didn't know whether controller was acting correctly. This is why I reoriented myself to checking controller.
Not at all, actually the motor is easy to check. You can ohm out the motor phase wires. If the resistance between the 3 phase wires is the same, that tells you the motor windings are good.

This tool makes it easy to check the hall sensors
https://www.amazon.com/Electro-Scooter-Brushless-Controller-Tester/dp/B088ZY2FGV/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2880SBD1GOZLE&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.W-oyy2iIPp102E46xbglsnbk95x0378j3hE8oVWloXFCYe5YJ6QGQe64afJi_L1xRCUpIgj5R4_JAArVrZp_7AIdyjG8nDAGrLm6XzDggZ48J0CrB_XmO3PsS2_khXizMJcrWh7yJQ4cO68A62AmSxQg96DxMAzy9CCHvAKo-cQLcBBhl_guN6_MyHFr10RW0fQV0D0ZPaechMGqDKQl0sp7LSwuUXGrQV2TTnJFGmT18MqyqkWRbG115hmUl0aeGDnhM6fW4afzTuWdSADbWXsGuV4GZreGPQ1GOc4ftdY.jOEVzoAXHeeX1PkhtDDqBuZTw8c7IbHbS4iZyTeRZIQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=ebike+testing+device&qid=1758492834&sprefix=ebike+test,aps,164&sr=8-1
 
Links to Amazon may include affiliate code. If you click on an Amazon link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
Thanks a lot again for the reply!
I thought you were testing through the motor. Most of these numbers make no sense to me, but I have only evaluated a few controllers.
Do you mean that they look weird to you, or do you mean that you wouldn't be able to tell if the controller is faulty based on them?

I am extremely surprised that no one seems to find it normal or abnormal that my measurements are asymmetric, or that there is voltage when the bike is idle.

Did you watch any of the videos on controller testing? You can separate the controller and look for continuity or lost connections.
Yes I did all of that. It's mostly just testing the MOSFETs, which I did.

I haven't found any other tests online, apart from the MOSFETs, the hall sensors etc. And it surprises me a lot, because the methodology I came up with seems to make sense to me on paper. I would have expected people to either know that there is a good reason for it not to be relevant, or to know that you can test your whole controller behaviour that way.
 
There are guys on Endless Sphere who go into the minutiae of all this, perhaps they can explain it. There is a point where I just start replacing parts, because I want my bike back. :shrug:
 
Back
Top