Aniioki A9 26x4.8 tire question

[Pspurcha]

I am looking to replace the tires on my A9. It is a fast bike (40 mph) with lots of torque and I am concerned that most of the 26x4.8 tires available are not very heavy duty. I don't want to put a tire on that is too flimsy or weak due to safety concerns. There seem to be heavier duty 26x4.0 tires available but don't know if they would be safe mounted to the rims. Any thoughts appreciated. Mostly street riding/commuting occasional fire roads. Thanks in advance.

 

[DieselTech]

Might look into the Roly Poly 26x4.8 tires.

 

[m@Robertson]

The CST Roly Polys are pretty cheap. Not at all what I'd use if I was looking for high speed durability.

For a bike like that, the HEB Allscape is almost in a class by itself. More than an ebike tire but not quite a moped/motorcycle tire. Heavy and heavy duty, but not crazy heavy.

My next choice would probably be a Surly Edna. Not as heavy as the Allscapes but high quality, fast rolling for a low-knobby and wears like iron.

 

[Pspurcha]

The HEB Allscape was one of the ones I was considering hence the original question about a 26x4 on the rim that came with a 26x4.8. I haven't had a tire off yet to measure the rim width. Assume either 80 or 100mm but not verified. My WAG (Wild a**guess) is 100mm. If that's the case is a 26x4 ok on a 100mm rim?

 

[DieselTech]

The new Vee E-Huntsman is another option.

 

[Pspurcha]

Those were my top 2 but both only avail in 26x4. Of 26x4 works on a 100mm rim then great but haven't received an answer to that question from anyone that has tried it.

Thanks for the tire recommendations though. Glad to know I'm thinking along the same lines.

I do reach downhill speeds of upwards of 45mph so want to have something I can rely on. At 68, I don't bounce too well anymore.

 

[m@Robertson]

I just googled a look at the Aniioki A9 and those look like 80mm rims. 26x4 will fit those rims just fine. They will fit 100's too. You'll just see a U profile on your tires which means a straight up and down sidewall.

Consider this: If you can fit 26x2.35 or 26x2.5 tires on 80mm rims, what you are talking about shaving off of a 100 is peanuts. ESPECIALLY since if you put a set of calipers around your typical "4.8" tire, you discover that ISO measurements tend to be painted on by the marketing department. Your typical 4.8 tire really has a casing in the 4.3" range. Go to the various fat tire reviews and you will see casing width is a common measurement and it seems pretty much everyone fibs. The ETRTO measurement tends to be a lot more reliable.

This is a pretty good picture (back wheel) to give you an idea of what a 100mm rim looks like. Tire on the back is a 4.7 and the front is a 4.8.

 

[DieselTech]

Here is my E Huntsmans. I can measure my rims to give you a better idea, of how they make look. My wheels are 80mm wide.

 

[m@Robertson]

Here is another of my bikes with 4.0 tires on 80mm rims. So your tire profiles should look just about like this.

The 4.0's came AFTER these two (I put a LOT of miles on this bike and wore down a lot of tire sets). On the left are big full phat Vees, followed by my first attempt at a smoother urban roller (I knew a lot of people who had already done Maxxis Hookworm 2.5's so I knew what I was getting into). The problem with 2.35" tires on an 80mm rim on a bike with no suspension was entirely comfort driven. They rolled smooth as glass but potholes at 28 mph were sub-optimal. So I went to the 4.0's in the first pic and stayed at that size on that bike.

Anyway, this is what I mean when I say that your downsizing ain't nuthin' compared to this and, functionally, this worked fine.

 

[DieselTech]

Here is another of my bikes with 4.0 tires on 80mm rims. So your tire profiles should look just about like this.
View attachment 17462

The 4.0's came AFTER these two (I put a LOT of miles on this bike and wore down a lot of tire sets). On the left are big full phat Vees, followed by my first attempt at a smoother urban roller (I knew a lot of people who had already done Maxxis Hookworm 2.5's so I knew what I was getting into). The problem with 2.35" tires on an 80mm rim on a bike with no suspension was entirely comfort driven. They rolled smooth as glass but potholes at 28 mph were sub-optimal. So I went to the 4.0's in the first pic and stayed at that size on that bike.

Anyway, this is what I mean when I say that your downsizing ain't nuthin' compared to this and, functionally, this worked fine.

View attachment 17463View attachment 17464

May ask what the front & rear racks them are on your bikes?

Thanks.

 

[m@Robertson]

May ask what the front & rear racks them are on your bikes?

Thanks.

Blackburn Outpost racks. Awesome because they expand and contract to fit narrow or fat bike widths, plus they are very low. The rear rack has its top deck reversed so its upside down and backwards. The light plate becomes a backstop. There is another Outpost on the back of the bike in Post #7 you just can't see it thanks to the stuff I have on the rack.

And I added a top deck to both. The rear is a big kicktail that is also lined with prismatic red tape to make it the world's largest reflector. The kicktail is part of the home-made fender setup and keeps water off of me. Its a street sign blank that I bent up just right to form that extension. The front deck is I think a 2" wide strip of aluminum stock that I bent upward (stuck it to the right depth in a steel door/doorframe, closed the door and leaned on it ). Water spraying forward off the tire goes up and (since you are traveling faster than the water spray) back into your face, or you put this front thingie on and it becomes a breakwater. The front upturned portion is also lined on the underside with silver prismatic tape so its another big reflector.

The shot of the bike charging at the park is the most recent and you see a permanently mounted weatherproof charger on the front now.

This bike was a year round rain or shine commuter and with the rack decks, the body fender and the other stuff I put on, water did not come up off the ground onto me from any angle.

 

[DieselTech]

Blackburn Outpost racks. Awesome because they expand and contract to fit narrow or fat bike widths, plus they are very low. The rear rack has its top deck reversed so its upside down and backwards. The light plate becomes a backstop. There is another Outpost on the back of the bike in Post #7 you just can't see it thanks to the stuff I have on the rack.

And I added a top deck to both. The rear is a big kicktail that is also lined with prismatic red tape to make it the world's largest reflector. The kicktail is part of the home-made fender setup and keeps water off of me. Its a street sign blank that I bent up just right to form that extension. The front deck is I think a 2" wide strip of aluminum stock that I bent upward (stuck it to the right depth in a steel door/doorframe, closed the door and leaned on it ). Water spraying forward off the tire goes up and (since you are traveling faster than the water spray) back into your face, or you put this front thingie on and it becomes a breakwater. The front upturned portion is also lined on the underside with silver prismatic tape so its another big reflector.

View attachment 17470View attachment 17471

The shot of the bike charging at the park is the most recent and you see a permanently mounted weatherproof charger on the front now.

This bike was a year round rain or shine commuter and with the rack decks, the body fender and the other stuff I put on, water did not come up off the ground onto me from any angle.

Thanks. I appreciate it. I have looked at them racks, but have never pulled the trigger on a set.

 

[Pspurcha]

Thanks all, appreciate the info and all the examples!

 

[Smaug]

FWIW - I have a buddy in the Saturday coffee club ride with a 26x4 eFatty, and he switched to tires with a slicker tread and he's a happy chappy. It doesn't howl on pavement any more and the wider lugs seem to give better puncture resistance. It has enough knobbiness to it where it is fine on gravel trails. The hack here is to carry a micro pump or inflator, so you can air-down the tires to maybe 10 psi for a larger contact patch, then air up to 20 psi again for the road.

Side note: Interestingly, his other bike is an "acoustic" road bike. He likes going 14-15 mph, and he's too out of shape to ride any other bike that fast, so he's got that do-it-all fleet.

 

[m@Robertson]

The hack here is to carry a micro pump or inflator, so you can air-down the tires to maybe 10 psi for a larger contact patch, then air up to 20 psi again for the road.

I did exactly that with a Lezyne fat pump, which is a miracle as hand pumps go. But the real miracle was the 48-72v compressor that runs off the ebike battery, so it stays light. Going from 200 pumps (versus 400 for a normal sized portable hand pump) to just plugging in and watching ... Not going back, ever. They are so reliable that after a few years I stopped carrying a manual backup. Cost is less than US$20.

A Lightweight Electric Emergency Bike Pump

Got an ebike? Use the big battery you are already lugging around to power a small portable pump.

talesontwowheels.com

 

[HumanPerson]

I did exactly that with a Lezyne fat pump, which is a miracle as hand pumps go. But the real miracle was the 48-72v compressor that runs off the ebike battery, so it stays light. Going from 200 pumps (versus 400 for a normal sized portable hand pump) to just plugging in and watching ... Not going back, ever. They are so reliable that after a few years I stopped carrying a manual backup. Cost is less than US$20.

A Lightweight Electric Emergency Bike Pump

Got an ebike? Use the big battery you are already lugging around to power a small portable pump.

talesontwowheels.com

Sir, We Love You!

That is all!

 

[Smaug]

The battery inflator thing requires us to tap into the bike's electronics. It's not realistic for any eBike that is not built oneself. They take quite a bit of power to run.

A battery-powered one tends to have cheap Li-Ion and will always be dead when needed.

Hand pump is the only solution most of us can count on. (CO2 is OK, but you only get as many shots as you have CO2 cylinders.)

 

[HumanPerson]

The battery inflator thing requires us to tap into the bike's electronics. It's not realistic for any eBike that is not built oneself. They take quite a bit of power to run.

Not at all, unplug battery or simply fab up a pigtail with the right XT-60 or XT-90 connector and good to go.

I did that for the Aventure, remember that ebike i had?
Sold it with the extra batter w/balancer and harness with pigtail already for the compressor or anything else that was outfitted with the proper connectors.

Since selling the Aventon Aventure with the extras i've not fabbed up one for the other ebikes in the fleet..yet

This has been a good reminder for me

 

[HumanPerson]

Hand pump is the only solution most of us can count on. (CO2 is OK, but you only get as many shots as you have CO2 cylinders.)

I still have me old hotdog pumps on each ebike, always a backup plan

 

[BiggKidd]

I did exactly that with a Lezyne fat pump, which is a miracle as hand pumps go. But the real miracle was the 48-72v compressor that runs off the ebike battery, so it stays light. Going from 200 pumps (versus 400 for a normal sized portable hand pump) to just plugging in and watching ... Not going back, ever. They are so reliable that after a few years I stopped carrying a manual backup. Cost is less than US$20.

A Lightweight Electric Emergency Bike Pump

Got an ebike? Use the big battery you are already lugging around to power a small portable pump.

talesontwowheels.com

Thank you for the info and link to the pump. I just ordered one. Now I just have to find the other plug or some type connector needed to wire it up, not a big deal. I'll likely use an XT60 since my bike already uses those.

So glad I didn't order one of the little battery pumps yesterday this is a much better solution! It cost far less to boot! Win Win WIN Love IT

Question @m@Robertson Does the gauge seem accurate?