alarm module CRAPPED OUT...need to delete

pishta

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Jul 29, 2021
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I made a custom battery pack (plastic one broke at ignition switch/lock from someone trying to yank it off frame) and sent -60V to a +60V controller. All is well after I found the error (dash display did not light) and corrected but the alarm now wont turn on the bike. It will chirp and flash the dash on but will immediately turn off. I just want to disable the anti-theft entirely as the HEAVY cargo type bike has a rear wheel chock lock and weighs almost 100kg, no one is gonna carry this thing! The alarm is a generic black box and the controller has the anti-theft 3 wire alarm signal harness. What wires do I jump to bypass this? Motor controller is generic 60V 22A GOBAO (?) 'SmartBrushless Controller' with 'anti-theft' as a listed function. IT worked great when it was working, no key required as you just hit the "lightning'"button on fob and it chirped and the dash turned on and it was ready to go, now I cant get it in that mode....

"...The burglar alarm line is two sets of lines, an alarm power line and an alarm signal line. The red and black 2 wires are the anti-theft device power cord, the red line is the positive pole, the voltage is as large as the battery voltage, and the black line is the negative pole. The alarm signal lines are light blue lines, yellow lines, and blue lines. The blue line is the remote start signal line, which is the anti-theft signal line. The yellow line is the electric door lock signal connected with the electric door lock line. The light blue line is connected with the green phase line in the motor phase line..."

I think the yellow door lock signal is the one I need power or short to to activate the bike? Im not sure if the controller was damaged or the alarm module, both are under $30 to replace but Im pretty good at soldering so if a component went out ie. relay on alarm PCB I can easily replace that component.
 
yes, I think I just bypassed it somehow, I have a manual toggle switch under the batter pack now. Not secure but with a locked back wheel and prop stand, its going nowhere. I think Im going to go with a keyed switch on the handlebars, there is a cast in place for one in the facia. Ill lose the battery lock but its welded in now with a bolt retention.
 
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