The + & - (Red & black) came factory soldered to the battery base directly from the controller. In the pic you can see I bypassed that connection to the battery combiner with an XT60 connector. The other 2 XT60 connectors you see are for the extra battery, and controller.Thank you - on your second picture, is there only two wires connected to the connecting block ?
Do you need to press your power button on your battery to wake it up to ride, or does your button cluster on the handlebars do it?
Yes, I may not have made myself clear. Do you have any more conductors going to the controller other than the plus and minus from the battery?The + & - (Red & black) came factory soldered to the battery base directly from the controller. In the pic you can see I bypassed that connection to the battery combiner with an XT60 connector. The other 2 XT60 connectors you see are for the extra battery, and controller.
That isn't the controller, it's the battery combiner pictured. But yes, one of the plugs goes the controller. From the controller are other plugs, like to the throttle, PAS sensor, headlight, brakes cut-offs, display.Yes, I may not have made myself clear. Do you have any more conductors going to the controller other than the plus and minus from the battery?
I just revisited this thread, I should have asked back in September - you aren't using the stock controller anymore, are you?That isn't the controller, it's the battery combiner pictured. But yes, one of the plugs goes the controller. From the controller are other plugs, like to the throttle, PAS sensor, headlight, brakes cut-offs, display.
I wasn't, no. I reverted back to stock everything just for the sake of better battery life and gave it to my wife.I just revisited this thread, I should have asked back in September - you aren't using the stock controller anymore, are you?
Yes. I used a 48v 30a Bafang controller and T1 touch display. It came as a kit from Accolmile on Amazon when I got the G062 1000W hub motor. I bought a right-hand twist throttle separately from same seller as the stock throttle isn't compatible, neither is the torque sensor or lights or anything else. If you use same controller that comes with the 48v Bafang hub motor, it's 100% compatible with the Shengyi motor and you'll get 30mph. It does eat more battery, so definitely use a 2nd battery. Buy a Panasonic if you can afford it from UPP; a 20ah Panasonic is better than a 24ah LG battery. If you go with the 1000w Bafang G062, youll get 4-5 more mph. Just be sure you get the 190mm instead of the 175mm version.So if I wanted to add...
But keep my working stock battery in the frame tube...
- a second battery,
- a battery combiner,
- and an aftermarket controller plus display for more speed.
I could still keep my Shengyi motor and connect it to the new controller,
and connect the new controller to the correct terminal on the battery combiner,
and then connect the orignal in-tube battery the way you did on one of the battery combiner terminals and the other battery on the other terminal and have a 30 mph top speed?
Did the aftermarket controller plug into everything including the motor without a bunch of splicing?
I'm sorry to keep bugging you, but I'm very enthusiastic about doing this if it's possible.
I just caught back up with this thread due to some log-in issues.Yes. I used a 48v 30a Bafang controller and T1 touch display. It came as a kit from Accolmile on Amazon when I got the G062 1000W hub motor. I bought a right-hand twist throttle separately from same seller as the stock throttle isn't compatible, neither is the torque sensor or lights or anything else. If you use same controller that comes with the 48v Bafang hub motor, it's 100% compatible with the Shengyi motor and you'll get 30mph. It does eat more battery, so definitely use a 2nd battery. Buy a Panasonic if you can afford it from UPP; a 20ah Panasonic is better than a 24ah LG battery. If you go with the 1000w Bafang G062, youll get 4-5 more mph. Just be sure you get the 190mm instead of the 175mm version.