58v battery triggers low voltage cut off at 50v

Bobby

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Hello,
I have a 52v battery and a controller rated 48-72v. With a volt meter I can see that the power cuts out at 50v, but shouldn't a 52v battery discharge to 48v not 50v ? I can’t find any info on what the battery low voltage cut off is, it’s a unit power pack 52v/13ah. I’m thinking it’s the controller cutting power off and not the batteries external BMS.
 
a "52v" battery will fully charge to 54.6 V, with an LVC around 42v, roughly. Sounds like your controller may have defaulted to values for a much higher voltage battery.

Battery (BMS) and controller LVC are seperate and not related. Controller usually set a bit higher than battery.
 
a "52v" battery will fully charge to 54.6 V, with an LVC around 42v, roughly. Sounds like your controller may have defaulted to values for a much higher voltage battery.

Battery (BMS) and controller LVC are seperate and not related. Controller usually set a bit higher than battery.
My battery has a resting state of 58.7 volts and with my pervious controller I could get down to 48 volts before it cut out. I also have a 48v that i would like to use on long trips. The controller is rated for 48-72v so I’d like to adjust it somehow. I opened up the controller and it has the same resistor as my previous controller both brown/black/brown rating. Trying to think of ways to fool the controller into thinking I have more volts then I do. Cutting out at 50volts instead of 48 really effects the range
 
You do not have a 52V, or 13S, battery. You have a 14S, or 58.8V battery.
Should be a setup menu for these items, however you do have to specify your battery correctly.

With two different batteries being swapped regularly, changing components each time is not really practical. If no setup menu to handle this, I would consider a new controller.
 
You do not have a 52V, or 13S, battery. You have a 14S, or 58.8V battery.
Should be a setup menu for these items, however you do have to specify your battery correctly.

With two different batteries being swapped regularly, changing components each time is not really practical. If no setup menu to handle this, I would consider a new controller.
Yea I don’t have a display. I’m probably just gonna get a 60v battery
 
Getting a new controller, or a display for your current one, would both be much less expensive and also allow for correct usage of both of your current batteries.

If your controller allows a wide range of voltages, with no display, there is almost always a procedure to specify the voltage, or to self-learn.

Strongly advise you learn and use specific, correct terminology. Series numbers. 12S, 13S, 14S, 15S, and then know what those numbers mean in terms of max charge voltage, and LVC settings.

For instance, "resting state" is NOT a standardized term. "Fully charged" is a specific term, with a specific voltage attached. Charge OVER that voltage, it can go BOOM. Actually it will be a series of pops and hisses accompanied by flame and sparks and possible house fire.

Charge UNDER that voltage, it will not last long. Even "nominal voltage" Is more of a judgement call. The 14S battery you have right now is sometimes called a "60V" battery. In fact, while I called it a 14S, due to the 58.7V number you gave, that COULD have been a partially discharged figure which just happened to be very close to the fully-charged 14S number.

You MUST KNOW the series count, which then gives you the max charge voltage, the only voltage number set in stone and not a guess.
 
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